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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Vodnář
To the right of the Water World route, up the wall from the left, then along the blunt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Vodnář
In the right part of the valley wall, from the small pillar up the wall over 3 BH into… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Vodnář
From the gully between Sagittarius and Aquarius, up the wall into the crack (BH) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Vodnář
To the left of the "Crab's Ditch" route, up the wall over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Vodnář
To the left of the Raindrops route, up the wall over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Čapí hnízdo
In the left part of the wall, left of the chimney, up the wall over BH and K into a crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Čapí hnízdo
From the small balcony near the斜chimney, up the wall over 3 BH to the 3rd K of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Madloň
To the right on the E side along the edge over 2 BH, from the left to the 3rd BH and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Čapí hnízdo
From the 1st K of the "Welcome, Mr. Stork!" route, left up the wall over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Madloň
As "Ground Eye Lens" over its 1st K and directly via an overhang (3 BH) to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Madloň
Up the center of the valley wall to the 1st K and along the right valley edge over 2 K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Madloň
In the center of the NE face to the foresummit and up the wall over 2 BH, higher to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Madloň
Along the valley edge and higher up the overhanging wall along the edge over 5 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Madloň
From the 4th BH of the Live 8 route, right to the 2nd BH of the "Blind in one eye" route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Madloň
Up the center of the S face (2 BH), then right (2 BH) to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Terč
From the right valley edge traverse left to the 1st BH, through the chimney and crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Terč
Along the right (NE) edge over 4 BH to the rappel. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Madloň
As "Mr. Handle" to the 2nd BH. Left over 3 BH to the rappel K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Terč
To the right on the valley side via a crack (1st BH), left of the chimney along the edge … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Terč
To the left in the valley wall over BH and K to a ledge (2nd K). Up the wall over 3rd K… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Terč
Along the SE edge in the left part of the valley wall over 3 BH to K (rappel). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Terč
In the valley wall along a small crack to a ledge and up the wall over 4 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Terč
Up the center of the left part of the S face (2 BH) and slightly to the right via a crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2
František
From S, via the chimney to the S edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
2
František
From S, directly to the summit via the chimney. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Terč
Via the S face (BH) and edge (2 BH), then left to the rappel BH of the "Family Trip"… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
František
To the left of the "Pohodovka" route, up the wall via BH to the balcony. To the left via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4-
František
From S, up the left chimney and crack to the terrace. Up the center of the NE face to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
František
Completely to the right in the valley wall from the gully diagonally left to the balcony… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
František
Up the valley wall and higher up right along the gully via 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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