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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Miliduch
From the corner above the left pillar of Babské ucho up the wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Miliduch
On the valley NE side from the gully to the right of the chimney of the route Tma vlhká… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Miliduch
Above the left pillar of Babské ucho from BH (stance) along the valley (S) edge directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Babský ucho
Through the middle of the right pillar over 4 BH and K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Babský ucho
From the terrace in the NE wall (BH, stance) along the left edge and further up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Babský ucho
From the terrace of the belay BH, through the middle of the valley wall over 5 BH and K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Babský ucho
Together with the route 'Když to opět trvá dlouho…' (When it takes a long time again…) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Babský ucho
Left of the route 'Vzpomínka na Lanče' (Memory of Lanče) up the wall over 10 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Babský ucho
Through the middle of the wall of the left pillar over 2 BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Babský ucho
Through the valley chimney to BH. From there, around the crack to the small balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Babský ucho
In the right part of the wall of the left pillar over 2 BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Babský ucho
On the left side of the valley, to the left of the left pillar in the corner, up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Střelec
From the saddle, traverse right to K (ring). Up the wall over the ledge and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Babský ucho
Along the left edge of the left pillar over 2 BH to the rappelling K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Střelec
Along the valley route over K (ring) up to the balcony. Long traverse to the right behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9+
Střelec
From the start of the Valley route, diagonally left over 2 BH and a sling to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
4+
Střelec
Directly to the ring of the Greasy Route, then further to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Střelec
In the left part of the valley wall, through the crack under the overhang (1st BH), from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Střelec
To the right of the N edge, up the wall to the beginning of the "Interrupted Crack" and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Střelec
Through the crack in the valley wall to the 1st K (ring), further to the balcony and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Střelec
In the middle of the NW wall to the interrupted crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Střelec
From the balcony, up the wall to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Střelec
Along the W edge to K (ring) and to the right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Vodnář
To the left of the All you can eat route, directly up the wall over 6 BH and further… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Vodnář
To the right of the All You Can Eat route, up the wall from the corner over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Vodnář
Through the middle of the right wall over 6 K (rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Střelec
Up the plateau wall to the balcony and through the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Vodnář
To the right of the Spongebob in Pants route, through the crack (2 BH). Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Vodnář
To the right of the "Nightwash" route, along the rib and up the wall over 7 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Vodnář
In the right part of the massif, a corner crack to the birch tree, a crack-chimney under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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