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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Vřesová věž
As "Náhorní spára" (Plateau Crack) into the hole, then left along the crack to K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vřesová věž
Up the crack in the plateau wall diagonally left, then diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Vřesová věž
To the right of the "Náhorní spára" (Plateau Crack) route, up the overhanging wall (K)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vřesová věž
From the large balcony on the SW side, up the wall diagonally left to the edge and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Zmizík
To the left of the Notorious Overhanger, a hand crack briefly under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Zmizík
Blunt edge under the overhang in the valley wall to the 1st BH. Over the overhang, via a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Zmizík
To the right of the Notorious Overhanger, from the block up the wall and via a small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Zmizík
From the terrace, to the right in the SE wall, via a distinctive crack (fixed slings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Reichstag
Middle of the valley wall via a crack past 3 BH to the end and left to the 4th BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Reichstag
From the 4th BH of the Führer route, continue straight up the wall (BH) and over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Reichstag
Along the right valley edge and up the wall past 4 BH and left to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Reichstag
Left valley edge past 4 BH and further diagonally right to the 5th BH of the Ein Kessel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Zed nářků
To the left of the route "Mossad" past 3 BH to the rappel BH from the route "Mossad" Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Zed nářků
In the right part of the wall past 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Reichstag
Right part of the S wall along cracks and via the corner past 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Reichstag
To the left of the route "Berlin Wall", up the wall past 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Zed nářků
To the right of the route "Palestine" via the corner and corner crack past 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Zed nářků
To the left of the Gaza Strip route, up the wall past 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Zed nářků
To the left of the route "Big Brother" past 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Zed nářků
In the left part via a crack to the 1st BH on a ledge and from the right along the blunt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Hollywood
Together with the route The Fast and the Furious over 2 BH and up the corner to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Hollywood
To the left via the corner, crack, and wall past 9 BH Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Hollywood
Between the routes "Kill Bill" and "Dream Factory" along the crack and up the wall past 9… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Hollywood
Right part of the wall, higher up along the crack and up the wall past 10 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Hollywood
To the right along the edge past 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Hollywood
To the right of the pillar next to the corner, up the wall (BH) over a small balcony and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Strážce mýtiny
To the right of the SW edge, up the wall past 2 K and slightly right past 3rd K to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Strážce mýtiny
All the way to the right on the valley side, up over BH to 1 K of the Wire Edge. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Strážce mýtiny
To the left in the N face, up the crack to its end and left along another crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Strážce mýtiny
From the terrace in the N face, traverse left above the small overhang to the NE edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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