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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Vezír
Up the wall right of the "Ratata" route and higher up the left overhanging edge over 8… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Vezír
Left of the start of the West Crack route, up the wall slightly left over 2 rings to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Želva
At the right edge of the plateau wall, over 3 bolt hangers from the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Želva
From the uphill side, traverse right past the edge and through the corner to the ledge of… Rock Climbing
2
Želva
From the south to the saddle and from there either via the chimney or the small wall to… Rock Climbing
5+
Želva
From the lower rock on the "Old Route" right to the bolt. Then diagonally right up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Želva
Up the plateau wall diagonally right to the bolt and right up the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing
4+
Želva
In the left part of the plateau wall, via a chimney, then a crack to the plateau and as … Rock Climbing
4+
Želva
In the SE face, left to the step to the bolt. Up the narrow chimney right to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Želva
In the right part of the east face, through the middle of the small wall to the block,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Želva
In the left part of the plateau wall, at the bottom, via an overhanging crack, then a… Rock Climbing
6-
Želva
To the left of the "South Crack", along the edge and up the narrow chimney to the bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Želva
In the south face, via the corner and up the wall to the 1st bolt and directly over the… Rock Climbing
6-
Želva
From the ledge in the south face, traverse the wall left (bolt) past the edge and via the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Želva
4m to the right of "Phoenix", up the wall via 2 bolts to the 1st bolt of "Renata's Route"… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Želva
Start as "Phoenix" to the 1st bolt. Right up the wall over the 2nd bolt into the hole.… Rock Climbing
5+
Želva
In the middle of the valley wall, via an open notch diagonally left to the 1st bolt and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Želva
To the left of the start of the "Valley Route", up the wall (bolt) left to the crack and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Želva
To the right of the Valley Route, along the edge (bolt) and up the wall into the "Phoenix… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Želva
About 5m to the right of the start of the "Valley Route", up the wall to the 1st bolt,… Rock Climbing
5+
Želva
To the left of the start, via the crack to its end and traverse right to the 1st bolt of… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Želva
In the left part of the valley wall, past the hour-glass (knots) and via the wall with 3… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Želva
From the left, past the hour-glass (knot), ascend to the North Edge and along it (1st… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Želva
Via the route "Revolt Against the King" to the ledge and up the wall via a bolt to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Želva
As the "R - variant" to the end of the crack, then directly up the wall via 2 bolts and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Želva
From the gorge in the north face, via a crack into a hole and right to the 1st bolt. Up… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Krunýř
On the east side, to the left of the Overhanging Route, through an overhanging wall via 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6-
Krunýř
In the plateau wall to the bolt and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Krunýř
To the right of the Overhanging Route, first briefly through a crack (slings), then left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Krunýř
Up the W face over a ledge to the 1st ring. Up the wall under the overhang, traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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