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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Žlutý pilíř
Immediately left of the W edge of the valley pillar along the small pinnacle to a ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Žlutý pilíř
By crack or chimney into the inner space between the pillar and the wall. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Žlutý pilíř
In the left part of the NW face of the valley pillar, over 2 K (bolts/rings) and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Žlutý pilíř
6m to the left of the main pillar through an open corner into a niche and right along a… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Žlutý pilíř
From the upper terrace to the left of the 'Přepůlená cesta' (Halved Route) by crack and a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Žlutý pilíř
8m to the left of the main pillar, through a corner to a birch tree and past two more… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Žlutý pilíř
To the left of the Central Chimney through a crack (or corner) into a horizontal fault,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Žlutý pilíř
To the left of the route 'Jarní akord' (Spring Chord) up the wall to K. Up the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Žlutý pilíř
To the left of the route 'Podzimní malba' (Autumn Painting) by crack under the roof-like… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Žlutý pilíř
On the west wall by crack to the balcony. Over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Žlutý pilíř
To the right of the route 'Lukášovy hlavičky' (Lukáš's little heads/nubs) diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Mrňous
From the saddle right to the right plateau edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Mrňous
Along the short plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mrňous
Through the center of the SE wall (K) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Mrňous
Through the center of the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mrňous
From the right (J) wall traverse left to the ring. Rock Climbing
5+
Mrňous
Along the valley edge or right along the overhanging wall to K and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Duhová věž
In the valley wall diagonally left to the 1st K, via the wall to the 2nd K and further up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Duhová stěna
From the ledge right above the start of Relay, from the BH shared with the route "King… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7/7+
Duhová stěna
2 m to the right of the start of the "Relay" route via the wall (hourglass) upwards and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Duhová stěna
5m to the right of the route "Punch to the Head" over 3bh to the rappel bh. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Duhová stěna
3 m to the right of the start of the "Relay" route via the wall (hourglass) into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Duhová stěna
To the right of the start of "Noon Heat" via the overhanging wall over 3 K to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Duhová stěna
Left of the "Corner Crack" up the wall over 4 K and diagonally right to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6+/7-
Duhová stěna
2.5 m to the left of the start of the Hunting Route, along the crack over an overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Západní předskalí Duhové stěny
About 15 m to the left of the Rainbow Tower, up the corner to just below a small overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Západní předskalí Duhové stěny
About 20 m to the left of the Rainbow Tower from a large corner up the wall through holes… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Západní předskalí Duhové stěny
Just to the right of the corner of the "Drill Without a Drill" route, from the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Lofas
On the NW side (from Vezír) to the left of the Homokláda route, up the wall over 2 K … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Vezír
From the 1st K of the Pekelnej Vodlez route, left up into the notch (2nd K) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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