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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Krunýř
Up the W face over a ledge to the 1st ring. Up the wall under the overhang, traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Krunýř
From the 2nd ring of the route "Morning Chill" directly up the wall to a crack and then… Rock Climbing
6
Krunýř
In the right part of the wall from the overgrown platform up the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Krunýř
In the left part of the wall from the slope via a broken crack to a step to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
6-
Krunýř
To the left of the W edge via a small corner and up the wall over a ring, higher along… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Krunýř
From the terrace behind the large beech tree via the cracks of the "Nitranský kníže"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Krunýř
To the right of the route "Nitranský kníže" (Prince of Nitra) up the center of the wall… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Jeřabinka
In the right part of the wall directly over two bolts and an overhang into the crack.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Jeřabinka
In the left part of the NW wall over 4 BH and a small overhang to the edge and along it … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Jeřabinka
Up the pillar directly over the belay (hourglass) and two BH to the abseil. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Buková stěna
To the right of the "Bukvice" route, to the right of the cold corner up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Jeřabinka
In the left part of the valley wall up the wall into a narrowing chimney, through it and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Jeřabinka
In the left part of the wall up the crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Buková stěna
Up the crack along the S edge to the end (K), higher up to the left along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Buková stěna
In the left part of the valley wall up the crack to 1st K. Up the crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Buková stěna
In the right part of the S wall (to the left of "Známá trojka" - Famous Three), up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Buková stěna
Up the wall along the SW edge to K and to the right up the arête/pillar to the end (BH).… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Buková stěna
As "Bláznova kronika" (Fool's Chronicle) over the overhang. Further directly along the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Buková stěna
From the "Bláznova kronika" (Fool's Chronicle) traverse, in the middle of the valley wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Buková stěna
As "Bláznova kronika" (Fool's Chronicle), a few meters up the crack and traverse left 1… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Buková stěna
Up the crack to the right of "Hluboký kout" (Deep Corner) over the overhang to the end … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Buková stěna
Start at the left valley corner into the overhanging crack and higher up the chimney to… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Buková stěna
Up the edge and arête/pillar to the 1st BH of the "Valibuk" route and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Vřesová věž
In the plateau wall via the route "Broukoviště" (Beetle Ground) to K and from the left up… Rock Climbing
5
Buková stěna
Up the corner crack from the N under the overhang, further up the arête/pillar into the… Rock Climbing
4-
Vřesová věž
From the NE edge diagonally right and up the N wall to a ledge. Up the wall to another… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Buková stěna
To the left of the "Hluboký kout" (Deep Corner) route, up the pillar over 3 BH to a ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vřesová věž
From the belay (hourglass) traverse right and up the gully, then along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vřesová věž
From the large balcony on the SW side, up the wall along the edge over the overhang (K)… Rock Climbing
6
Vřesová věž
Left in the S wall up to the ledge and right to 1st K. Up the arête/pillar, then left to… Rock Climbing

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