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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Žlutý pilíř
Like the "Podkovák" (Horseshoe) route, several meters up, through the crack on the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Žlutý pilíř
From the start of the "Lubošovy narozeniny" (Luboš's Birthday) route, left along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Žlutý pilíř
Through the S-shaped chimney to the right of the "Podkovák" (Horseshoe) route to the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Žlutý pilíř
To the right of the "Poslední komín" (Last Chimney) route, up the wall via the 1st BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Žlutý pilíř
From E into the chimney and to the right along the small pinnacle crack under the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Žlutý pilíř
Right of the chimney up the wall (K) into the crack (2nd ring) and through it into the… Rock Climbing
6-
Žlutý pilíř
Through the crack of the narrow central pillar of the E wall to the balcony. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Žlutý pilíř
Between the routes "Deštivé léto" (Rainy Summer) and "Podkovák" (Horseshoe), up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Žlutý pilíř
From E into the chimney and in its left part along the right crack and through the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Žlutý pilíř
To the right of the variant of 'Boží lávky' (God's Footbridges) from the block along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Žlutý pilíř
Along the edge over K directly to the 1st K of the 'Boží lávky' (God's Footbridges) route… Rock Climbing
6-
Žlutý pilíř
From E into the chimney and up the left crack over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Žlutý pilíř
Up the wall and through a crack under a prominent overhang to the first BH, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Žlutý pilíř
Through the 'Žlutý kout' (Yellow Corner) briefly up and right to the 1st K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Žlutý pilíř
Through the crack and corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Žlutý pilíř
Through the approach notch of the 'Žlutý kout' (Yellow Corner) route and further up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Žlutý pilíř
Right of the 'Žlutý kout' (Yellow Corner) route, along the edge (K) and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Žlutý pilíř
To the left of the start of the 'Žlutý kout' (Yellow Corner) route, along a short notch… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Žlutý pilíř
Left of the 'Žlutého kouta' (Yellow Corner) up the wall to a small pillar at the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Žlutý pilíř
From the large block between the pillar and the wall briefly up and right to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing
6
Žlutý pilíř
Left of the 'Levoruč' (Left Handed) route via an overhang (ring), higher up the wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Žlutý pilíř
Along the edge and crack into the inner space. Through the corner, under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Žlutý pilíř
On the fallen valley pillar near the E edge (left of the 'Radost všedního odpoledne' (Joy… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Žlutý pilíř
Narrow east face of the pillar via an overhang to a ledge (right, hourglass). Blunt edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Žlutý pilíř
In the right part of the valley face to the left of the 'Bivaková cesta' (Bivouac Route),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Žlutý pilíř
From the right valley edge, left into the crack and through it over K to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Žlutý pilíř
To the left of the 'Noční baletky' (Night Ballerina) corner, from the left, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7/7+
Žlutý pilíř
On the valley face to the right of the 'Noční baletka' (Night Ballerina) route, through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Žlutý pilíř
Left of the route 'Noční baletka' (Night Ballerina) up the wall to the ring. Higher along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Žlutý pilíř
Left crack to the balcony and left edge of the pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing

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