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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Žlebská jehla
Along the E edge via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Žlebská jehla
Through the center of the S wall via 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Žlebská jehla
Below the overhang, traverse left and up the northern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7/7+
Žlebská jehla
At the left valley (S) edge, up the crack to 1. K. Right behind the edge to 2. K, back… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Žlebská jehla
To the right in the upper wall into the groove, through it to the end and traverse right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Žlebská jehla
Up the upper wall along the left northern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Žlutá stěna žlebská
From the NE, up the crack via BH to its end. Diagonally left up the wall and edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
From the NW, up the wall and crack via 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
All the way to the right on the S massif via the edge (to the right of the route 'Forward… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Through the center of the valley wall via 2 BH and 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Žlutá stěna žlebská
In the valley wall, follow the crack-groove to its end, leading to loose blocks. Step… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Right of the crack, up the wall via BH and 2 K and further along the edge via 2 K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
From the NE, through the corner in the large notch to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Left of the route "Show Your Palm" up the wall along the edge to the balcony (4 BH) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Start like "Bubble Blower" and then diagonally right up the wall via 7 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
In the right part of the wall, in the left wall of the deep corner, via a crack to 1. K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Start like "Bubble Blower" and then left along the rounded edge via 7 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Following the route "Motorboat Commander" to K. Then directly through the notch via BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Right of the "Yellowstone" route, by crack and crack over 3 BH and K. From there right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Žlutá stěna žlebská
In the middle of the wall, by the left corner crack under the roof (belay station). Right… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
In the middle of the wall, by corner crack into the chimney (K). Through the chimney over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Right of "Velvet Crack", up the wall over 9 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Right of the "Yellow Fever" route, through cracks, a crack and the wall over 7 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Right of the "Flyboy" route, by crack and crack over BH, K and 3 BH into the chimney of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
By the route "Fight for the Trough" above the 4th BH. Up the wall to the right over a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
From the rappel BH of Yellow Fever, up the wall to the 10th BH, from the left to the 11th… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Up the wall to the right of the fore-rock (2 BH) and along the crack (5 BH). Over a small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Žlutá stěna žlebská
From the fore-rock, left of "Purple Crack", up the wall over 4 BH left to the 5th BH of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
From the fore-rock below the left part of the wall, by purple crack over 2 K to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7+/8-
Žlutá stěna žlebská
Left of the "Paranormal Phenomenon" route, by crack (4 BH) under the overhang to the 5th… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2

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