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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Otesánek
Through the center of the plateau face to the ledge, right into the hole and by crawling… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Otesánek
From the start of the "Old Path" left and up the face to the summit. (Renovations changed… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Otesánek
In the right part of the valley wall to the 1st K. Slightly left via the gully to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Otesánek
In the S face along the left edge to the 1st K and traverse diagonally right to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Otesánek
From 1st K "Scent of Lilies of the Valley" directly over 2 K to 3rd K "Scent of Lilies of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Otesánek
From the 2nd K diagonally left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Otesánek
In the valley wall from the left diagonally right (BH) to the 2nd BH, up the wall over 4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Otesánek
As the route Expulsion of Germans to the 2nd BH. Then diagonally right and directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Otesánek
From the 1st BH of the route "Expulsion of Germans" from the right side of the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Otesánek
Through the left part of the valley wall over 2 BH to the 2nd BH of the route "Expulsion… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Otesánek
S overhanging wall over 4 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Duna
In the right part of the Dune via the crack (2 BH) over the 3rd BH overhang to the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Otesánek
Left of the route "Czechs to Czechs" via a short corner and overhanging wall over 7 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Duna
Through the middle of the wall via the crack and up the wall over 3 BH to the abseil BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Pupek světa
From the right corner diagonally left to the 1st BH and up the wall over another 3 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Duna
In the left part of the wall over 3 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Kazatelna
From the plateau side, descend and through the center of the SW wall over an overhang and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Pupek světa
Through the crack in the middle of the wall over 2 K to the abseil station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Pupek světa
Left of the central crack up the wall directly over 3 BH to the abseil station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Pupek světa
Left of the route "Homo Žlebensis" up the wall over 5 BH to the abseil BH of the route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Kazatelna
Start from the base of the S wall up the corner. Follow it to the end (as "Thunder and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Kazatelna
From the gorge descend to the S edge and follow it over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2+
Kazatelna
Left in the valley wall via the chimney into the gorge. Continue via the "Old Route" to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kazatelna
From the 2nd BH of the route "Cemeteries are full of heroes" via the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Kazatelna
Left in the valley wall along the crack (2 BH), diagonally right up the wall, overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Kazatelna
From the valley left of the SE edge up the corner and right along the edge to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Kazatelna
About 10 meters left of the "Valley Route" along the crack and right to the edge to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Kazatelna
Left of the "Valley Route" via the rib and wall over 6 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Kazatelna
Via the "May Route" to the ledge. Traverse right to the edge (1st K) and along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Kazatelna
Several meters left of the start of the "Valley Route" up the corner, later on the right… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1

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