Skip to content
Offline You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
Back to list

Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Protěžová věž
In the right part of the S wall over 4 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Protěžová věž
2m left of the plateau (SW) edge up the wall to a small balcony and by "Old Route Variant… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Protěžová věž
Along the SW edge to the balcony and up the right crack in the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Protěžová věž
Left part of the S wall (1st K) below the overhang and right to the 2nd K. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Protěžová věž
From the balcony, up a notch and a crack to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Protěžová věž
Up the plateau wall from the right (or directly VIIIa) to the 1st K. Through a fine crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Protěžová věž
From the 1st K of "Sybyl's Wall" up the wall over 2 BH and right into the crack of "Old… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Protěžová věž
Left of "Sybyl's Wall" over 3 K to the edge (4th K) and to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Protěžová věž
Along the left plateau edge up to the 2nd K. Another 3m up, then traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Protěžová věž
From the 2nd K of the route "Moral Decline" further along the edge over the 3rd K and 4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Bubák
Via the crack and face over 2 K and BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10
Protěžová věž
From the 2nd K of the route "Moral Decline" up the overhanging face over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Bubák
To the right of the route "Haunted School" along the crack (sling) to the 1st BH. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Bubák
Up the face to the left of the route "Haunted School", over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Bubák
To the left of the route "Špilberk Barbucha" via a crack and the face near the edge (1st… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Bubák
In the left part of the face, up the face, crack and edge, over 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Bubák
Through the prominent corner in the middle of the massif, later along the cuts diagonally… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Bubák
From the 3rd BH of the route "You have a nice guitar.." traverse right on the ledge. Up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Bubák
Via the route "You have a nice guitar, boy" over 3 BH to K. From there diagonally right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Bubák
To the left of the prominent corner that divides the face, along the edge, over steps and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Bubák
In the left part of the face along the small pillar over 3 BH to K. Over the steps… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Bubák
To the left of the route "You have a nice guitar, boy" along the small pillar over 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Kouzelná panenka
Completely to the right up the face along the edge to the ledge. From there up the face,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Kouzelná panenka
To the right of the Chucky route... up the face and cracks over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Kouzelná panenka
To the right of the Wednesday Addams route up the face (4 BH) to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-/7
Otesánek
From the start of the "SE route" up the S face via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Otesánek
SW edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Otesánek
From the plateau side, traverse above the overhang to the right all the way to the SE… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Kouzelná panenka
Along the left edge over 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Otesánek
From the start of the "Old Path" left and up the face to the summit. (Renovations changed… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2

Nobody is looking for a partner here yet — be the first.