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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Hraniční jehla
In the right part of the plateau wall, diagonally right to the edge, traverse right all… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Hraniční jehla
Jump from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Klopotská stěna
First route from the left in the gully, which leads to the upper floor of Klopotská Wall.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2+
Hraniční jehla
Descent from the massif to the saddle and up the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Hraniční jehla
Up the center of the plateau wall to a ledge and along it hand-over-hand to the left into… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Hraniční jehla
Left on the plateau wall, via a squeeze chimney between the tower and the massif over K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Hraniční jehla
From the upper balcony in the corner between Hraniční jehla and Klopotská stěna, up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Hraniční jehla
From the dam of the small lake along the edge over 6 K and BH to a large balcony. Freely… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Hraniční jehla
Start on the W bank of the small lake, up the left chimney to the balcony below the last… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9+
Hraniční jehla
From the start of the 'Žbluňk' route, traverse right above the water and up the cracked… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Hraniční jehla
Left of the N route 'Jezerní stěna' (Lake Wall), up the wall over 3 K to the ring of … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Hraniční jehla
Up the center of the E wall to K. Left and straight over 4 BH, higher over the overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Hraniční jehla
From the 5th BH of the 'Imigrační vlna' (Immigration Wave) route, up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Hraniční jehla
Left of the 'Žbluňk' route up the wall, over the overhang and along the edge (6 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8+/9-
Hraniční jehla
Up the center of the valley wall directly over 3 BH below the overhang. From the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Hraniční jehla
Left on the valley side (from SE) from the small pillar with an overthrow to the 1st BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Hraniční jehla
Start completely from the left of the massif from the highest point of the gorge up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Hraniční jehla
Start at the base of the valley (E) wall. Along the ledge under the overhang, traverse… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
7-/7
Hraniční jehla
From the highest point of the gorge on the S side, from the ledge left of the SE pillar,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Skrytá země
On the NE side (from the direction of Hraniční jehla) from the balcony up the center of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Skrytá země
Right of the start of the Old Route on the Prcek tower, up the wall and overhang over 6… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Prcek
Right of the 'Nástupová varianta' (Approach Variant) via crack and wall over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Prcek
From the center of the valley (E) wall slightly left over 6 BH to the rappel BH and to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Prcek
On the valley side, together with the route 'Pořád na malých' above 1st BH. Right and up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Prcek
From the saddle, up the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Prcek
From the balcony on the valley side from the right over the 1st bolt to the sharp valley… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4+
Prcek
From the S, up the crack and chimney between the tower and the massif to the saddle. As… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Prcek
From the N, up the corner between the tower and the massif to the ledge, traverse left… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Mizantrop
Along the SE edge over 3 bolts to the balcony. Up the wall to the right of the edge (4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Mizantrop
To the left of the 'Barking of Women' route on the slope, up a prominent edge over 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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