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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Večerní věž
In the West face to a detached block, diagonally left into the chimney, traverse to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Večerní věž
Like the "East Route" to the ledge and to the right up the wall and a small crack to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Večerní věž
Like the "Old Route Variant" to the detached block, up the wall diagonally left to a… Rock Climbing
6-
Večerní věž
In the narrow North face via the overhanging wall to K. Briefly up and left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Večerní věž
To the left in the West face via a crack to a detached block and directly into the… Rock Climbing
4-
Večerní věž
Up the narrow upper wall to the detached block and to the right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Večerní věž
From the detached block left behind the edge and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Večerní věž
Left in the East face to a ledge and up the wall to another ledge (hourglasses). Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sova
All the way to the right on the South side briefly via the chimney to the balcony, pass… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Východní blok
Along the Falcon's way on the South edge to the bolt right of the edge, over 2 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sova
Left in the S face from the boulder diagonally left to the edge to the 1st K. Along the… Rock Climbing
6
Sova
From the 2nd ring of the Anonymous route directly over the overhang and traverse left to… Rock Climbing
5+
Sova
Right part of the S face via 1st K to 2nd K. Traverse left to the edge of the chimney and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Sova
From the ring left, via a narrowing crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Sova
In the S face to the right into the chimney, diagonally right via a crack and traverse… Rock Climbing
6-
Sova
SW pillar via 1BH to the platform, along the edge via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Sova
Up the middle of the SW face via a crack and wall to the K of the "Opening of Springs"… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the right of the Easy Livin route, along the edge and further up the wall via 4 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
10-/10
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the 4th bolt of "Masquerade Ball" (ledge), left through the overhanging wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the 1st bolt of "Hesitant Shooter", steeply left across the wall and rib via 3 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Zbrojnoš
From the upper side over the accumulated boulders to the right to the lower side and up… Rock Climbing
?
Zbrojnoš
From the summit of Stelzig's Stone, descend the wall and crack to the plateau. Jump to… Rock Climbing
4+
Zbrojnoš
As "Old Route" to the piled boulders and to the left by an open notch to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zbrojnoš
From the saddle, an overthrow onto the E edge, briefly up that and traverse left into a… Rock Climbing
5+
Zbrojnoš
From the gorge between the towers, by a crack obliquely left onto the balcony and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zbrojnoš
By the plateau edge over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Zbrojnoš
By the left plateau edge (3BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zbrojnoš
From the gorge between Zbrojnoš and Stelzig's Stone (SE wall), to the left of the start… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Zbrojnoš
To the right of the start of the Little Bulls Route (left in the SE wall) directly over 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zbrojnoš
To the right on the valley edge (by positioning) over a large overhang and a crack, at… Rock Climbing

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