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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Zbrojnoš
To the right of the start of the Little Bulls Route (left in the SE wall) directly over 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zbrojnoš
In the S wall via an overhanging crack into a niche and up the wall (K) to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing
4+
Zbrojnoš
To the left of the "Valley Route" by an easy edge onto the balcony and by a crack onto… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Zbrojnošova stěna
Along the valley edge of the turret between the 'Ahoj' and 'Průzkumná' (Exploratory)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Zbrojnošova stěna
About 3 m from the 'Melodie podsvětí' (Melody of the Underworld) route, over a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zbrojnošova stěna
Between the 'Zelené jaro' (Green Spring) and 'Červánky naděje' (Dawns of Hope) routes, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Karlova stěna
Left part of the valley wall into the corner and thereby to the 1st K. Through the hole… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Karlova stěna
By the crack that crosses the entire valley wall over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Karlova stěna
Left of the Valley Crack by the wall and along small cracks over 4 bolts to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Karlova stěna
To the left of the North Ridge by the crack 1st ring and along the edge over 4 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9+
Karlova stěna
In the South face left of the route Wild Romsdal over the overhang and by the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Volební stěna
Like 'Slippery Lux' to the ledge and left part of the wall over 4 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Volební stěna
By the wall (BH) to the ledge and through the middle of the wall over 4 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Volební stěna
In the corner between Volební and Karlova wall briefly by chimney and left over the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Volební stěna
Freely to the ledge and right part of the wall over 4 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Volební stěna
Left edge over 4 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Klopotská stěna
To the right of the Old Testament route up the wall via 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Klopotská stěna
To the right across the corner from the "Man, don't be angry" route up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Klopotská stěna
To the right of the 'Man, don't be angry' route (Ludo/Pachisi) up the crack and wall via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Klopotská stěna
From the rappel BH of the Crocodile route, left up the overhanging wall via 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Klopotská stěna
Up the wall directly via BH to the ledge below the summit and left to the rappel of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8/8+
Klopotská stěna
To the left from the plateau terrace (from the rappel BH) Directly up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Klopotská stěna
From the lower ledge behind the small lake (stance, K) up the wall from the left via 9 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9+
Klopotská stěna
Like Niagara to the 4th BH. To the right up the wall and edge via 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Klopotská stěna
Above the small lake from the upper balcony in the corner between Hraniční Jehlou (Border… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Klopotská stěna
To the right of the Track route through the crack (3 BH) to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Klopotská stěna
To the right of the Trick route up the wall via 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Klopotská stěna
To the right of the Tick route up the wall via 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Klopotská stěna
From the stance on the small balcony above the water in the SW corner of the small lake… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Hraniční jehla
Left from the massif, 4m descent. From a standing position, overthrow to the NE edge. Via… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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