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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Jarní věž
Through the left crack in the S wall. Rock Climbing
3
Jarní věž
To the left of the "Old path" through a chimney to boulders. From the gap, step over into… Rock Climbing
5
Jarní věž
Through the right crack in the S wall. Rock Climbing
2+
Jarní věž
In the S wall, through a corner to piled up boulders and through a notch to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Jarní věž
From the gully, through a crack and a small wall to the ring. Higher up, along a small… Rock Climbing
3
Jarní věž
To the right in the West face via a chimney to an overgrown platform and left via a gully… Rock Climbing
3
Jarní věž
As the "Old path" to the blocks, traverse left to the SW edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Jarní věž
Up the South face via K to the South fore-summit. Like the "January Wall" to the main… Rock Climbing
3
Jarní věž
To the left on the South side through a small cave and briefly up a chimney to the left… Rock Climbing
5+
Jarní věž
About 3m left of the start of the "Harlequin" route directly up the face (hourglass) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Jarní věž
Up a closed corner in the West face to an overgrown platform and right via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
6
Jarní věž
Up the center of the North face along fine cracks and a larger crack to K. Directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jarní věž
Along the NW ridge to K, up the face to a ledge and right (hourglass), then along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Jarní věž
To the right of the SE edge via a crack to a platform, left to K and along the edge to… Rock Climbing
4+
Jarní věž
Along the NE ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Polední věž
From the massif, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Jarní věž
Up the center of the East face to K. Up the face diagonally left to a hollow and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Polední věž
From the massif, traverse/overhang to the plateau edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Polední věž
Up the SE face via K to the pillar, then left up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Polední věž
To the right in the valley face via a crack to a balcony (K). In the corner via a small… Rock Climbing
3
Polední věž
In the East face via a corner crack to the pillar and up a short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Polední věž
To the left in the plateau face via an opposition climb to a ledge and via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Polední věž
Like "Father-in-law" to K and right via a diagonal crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Polední věž
Up the chimney in the valley face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Polední věž
To the right of the "Old Route" via a crack and right to the North ridge to K. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Polední věž
In the NW face via a crack, then right along the West ridge to K. Slightly left up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Polední věž
In the left part of the North face of the fore-peak, diagonally right via receding cracks… Rock Climbing
5
Večerní věž
Like the "Old Route" to the detached block and up the face via K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Polední věž
Start like the route "In a Slanting Angle" directly up a blunt edge and a small wall… Rock Climbing
2+
Polední věž
In the plateau (NE) face via a crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing

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