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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Žokej
Up the gradually widening crack to the summit. Located to the right of Matylda. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Žokej
Up the wall from the passage via a bolt to the plateau. Via the pillar (bolt) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Žokej
From the valley, over the overhang (bolt) into the narrow gully/chimney and through it … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Žokej
Directly along the edge over the bolt to the 2nd bolt of the 'Dostihy' route. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žokej
From the gully between Jockey and Matylda, up the wall to the bolt flake, and further up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Bouzek
Up the right valley edge via a bolt, under the summit block and from the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Bouzek
In the left part of the valley wall to the bolt. Along the edge and higher left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Bouzek
Up the small South face of the small tower via a bolt to the summit. (equipped with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Bistury
Along the W edge under the overhang. To the left of the edge (2 BH) above the overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Bistury
From the 3rd BH of the Secret Meeting route, traverse left and over the overhang (2 BH)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Bistury
To the right of the Tropic Ajlent route, up a corner and the overhanging wall via 6 BH to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Bistury
Up the West pillar under the roof-like overhang (1st BH). Slightly left onto a small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Bistury
Up the West pillar from the right side to the 1st BH of the Intergalactic Meeting route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Krab
To the right of the "Old Route" up the wall along the edge to the balcony. Then via the … Rock Climbing Route on sun
7/7+
Bistury
Up the North face over the overhang (1st BH), then up the small wall over the 2nd BH, via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Krab
To the right in the S wall onto the balcony and via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Krab
Up the narrow plateau wall directly to the summit Rock Climbing
5+
Krab
Up the valley wall to the plateau. Up the small wall to the left under the overhang … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Krab
Up the S wall via 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Krab
From the base of the S wall, up the SW edge under the roof-like overhang, to the right… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Krab
Briefly up like the "Old Route", then traverse left to the SW edge and up it to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Krab
On the left in the N wall via the small corner, then up the wall to the left to the edge… Rock Climbing
4+
Podhradí
In the valley (W wall) in the left part via a corner (possibly also a blunt edge) and a… Rock Climbing
5
Podhradí
Up the corner of the 'Zaběhlej kus' route for several meters, higher up to the right via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Podhradí
Up the wall along the SW edge via 2BH to the summit. (abseil) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Podhradí
From the 1st K of the "Bethlehem Light" route, directly up the wall (K) and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Podhradí
Approx. 3m to the right of the Vodní příkop (Water Ditch) route, up the slabby wall into… Rock Climbing
4+
Podhradí
In the right (S) part of the massif, up the wall to the notch, and through it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Podhradí
Up the South wall along the edge to the notch to the balcony and up the wall to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Maxi
Up the center of the South wall over the bh to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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