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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Mlýnský pytel
To the right on the S side (S pillar of Mlýnský pytel) between the Magor Joe route and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
7/7+
Mlýnský pytel
On the S side from the corner between Mlýnský pytel and Alaska, from the right via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Aljaška
In the right part of the S wall, to the right of the Gate of the Arctic route, from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Polárník
Left of Distanc, up the wall to the ring and along the rib to the pulpit. Right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Argus
Completely to the right in the massif there is an overhanging pillar. To the left of it,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Viklan
From S, via the chimney between the tower and the massif to the saddle, left up a small… Rock Climbing
2+
Viklan
From the massif, descend via a gully and wall to the saddle and then take the "Old Route"… Rock Climbing
4+
Viklan
At the point where the "Southern Route" branches off from the chimney of the "Old Route",… Rock Climbing
4-
Viklan
Up the chimney of the "Old Route" approximately halfway, traverse left along the ledge to… Rock Climbing
6-
Viklan
Left of the SW edge, straight up the wall to the balcony. Then along the edge, first from… Rock Climbing
5
Viklan
Either via a crack in the S wall, or along the SE edge to the ledge. Up the wall, first… Rock Climbing
6-
Viklan
From the ledge, up the wall over K to the crack and along it to the second ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Viklan
From the NW corner to the overgrown plateau and through the middle of the N wall (K)… Rock Climbing
5
Viklan
From the SW edge obliquely left up the wall to the N side and via a crack to the balcony … Rock Climbing
7/7+
Viklan
From the valley side, via an overhanging wall (6 BH) to the second balcony of the "Valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Viklan
From the overgrown platform on the NW side, up the wall (hourglasses/natural threads),… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Skřítek
Up the middle of the SW wall along small cracks, higher slightly right over 2 bolts to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Skřítek
In the right part of the SW wall, up the crack to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Skřítek
In the left part of the SW wall, into the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Skřítek
Via the route "From Here to Eternity" to the 1st bolt. Directly to the 2nd bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Skřítek
In the right part of the valley wall, over the overhang (bolt) and up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Skřítek
In the left part of the valley wall, up the corner to a ledge below the overhang, 1 bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Skřítek
From the fore-rock in the N wall, traverse the wall (bolt) to the right to the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hříbek
From the edge, over the ring to the ledge, over two overhangs to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hříbek
In the right part of the SW wall, up the crack to its end, then up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Hříbek
Up the NW wall directly over 3 bolts to the ledge and along the edge to the summit to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Hříbek
On the right side of the north wall over 3 bolts to the rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Žokej
From the fore-rock, up the wall over 3 bolts below the overhang. Up the small wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Žokej
Up the valley chimney over a jammed boulder to the saddle. NC (Natural Climbing… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Hříbek
On the left side of the NW wall over 2 bolts into the crack (slings) and along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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