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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
César
From the summit of Cleopatra, descend a few meters to a ledge on the S face and jump to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
César
Like the Plateau route to Cleopatra to the ledge and right, traversing into the start of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
César
From the W, from the massif, by jumping down to the N summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
César
4 m right of the Plateau Chimney, via the corner and twin crack in the massif to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
César
From the plateau of the Old Route, via opposition between the tower edge and the massif… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
César
From the plateau of the Old Route, to the right via the chimney between the tower and the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
César
Via the corner and chimney near the NW edge to the balcony and left via the crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
César
From the W, over the blocks to the plateau and via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
César
As a variant of the Northwest route, briefly through the corner, then left to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
César
From the E, via an overhanging crack and wall to the piton. Along the wall below the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
César
From the gully between Caesar and Cleopatra, via an overhanging corner crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
César
From the saddle between Caesar and Cleopatra, via a narrow chimney or to the left through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
César
From the E, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
César
Right in the S face to the bolt hanger. To the right to the crack (2nd BH). Diagonally… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
César
Through the middle of the S face along the crack and the wall over 3 pitons to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
César
In the left part of the S face over 2 pitons, higher up left along the wall near the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
César
From the 2nd BH of Gladiator's Revolt along the crack (piton), higher up the wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
César
Along the SW edge (to the left of the Bohemian Life route) directly over 2 BH and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
César
Completely on the left on the S side in the gully on a narrow pillar directly along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Strýček
Via the crack and higher up the chimney to the left of the Květinek pro Šugiho route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Schovanka
From the massif, descend to the valley edge, jump to the lower ledge, and a short ridge… Rock Climbing
2+
Schovanka
From the massif, descend to the saddle (or from SW, ascend via chimney). Traverse the S… Rock Climbing
4-
Schovanka
From the saddle along the plateau edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Schovanka
From the ledge in the massif on the S side, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Schovanka
From the S via the chimney to the plateau, step across into the wall and via a crack into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Schovanka
Up the SW edge to K, the wall to the ledge of the "Old Route" (hourglass), and over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Schovanka
Up the narrow W wall to K, then right along the edge to a ledge. Further as "Kapka krve" … Rock Climbing
6-
Schovanka
From the S, via the corner to its end and up the overhanging wall (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Schovanka
From the balcony on the S side, up the wall along the NW edge over 3 bolts to the fore… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Mlýnský pytel
Farthest right on the S wall (S pillar of Mlýnský pytel) via the corner over 2 bolts and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang

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