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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Růžový pilíř
From the right to the hole and diagonally left to the 1st K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Růžový pilíř
To the right of "Small Problem" via a crack to the balcony. Via a crack to the left of… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Růžový pilíř
6 meters to the left of the Divided Edge stance, up a wide, initially overhanging crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Růžový pilíř
From the bivouac, up the left overhanging edge to the top of the pillar (belay). Along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Růžový pilíř
Up the small wall above the bivouac via K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Růžový pilíř
In the left part of the wall, to the right of the small bivouac, along the South edge… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Podzimní věž
From the base of the South face diagonally right to the edge, up the wall to the crack,… Rock Climbing
2+
Podzimní věž
From the ledge in the South face, right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Podzimní věž
From the ledge in the South face via a crack in the middle of the wall. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Podzimní věž
From the east, up the wall to the ring and along the small edge under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Podzimní věž
From the boulder on the valley side, up the overhanging wall to the ledge and by the "Old… Rock Climbing
4-
Podzimní věž
On the valley side from the NW via an overhanging corner to the saddle and by the "North… Rock Climbing
6-
Podzimní věž
To the right of the "West Corner" along the edge (K) under the overhang. Over it and… Rock Climbing
2+
Podzimní věž
From the plateau side, left to the SW ridge and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Podzimní věž
From the saddle via the small gully in the North face diagonally right, then traverse… Rock Climbing
5+
Kubík
In the right part of the valley wall around the crack and edge to the shelf (hourglass)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rudolfův kámen
From the E side, up the wall over an overhang (1st K) to a platform and through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rudolfův kámen
Up the SE edge, start slightly from the left, at the top right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Rudolfův kámen
From S into the chimney and near the NW edge of the E tower, diagonally left to the edge… Rock Climbing
4+
Rudolfův kámen
Up the chimney from S to a ledge, along it to the right and through a short crack into a… Rock Climbing
4+
Rudolfův kámen
To the right in the S face of the E tower, diagonally right to a small balcony in the E… Rock Climbing
5+
Rudolfův kámen
From the start of the "Southern Route", diagonally right up the wall to K, then up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Rudolfův kámen
From S into the chimney and up the crack in the E face of the W tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rudolfův kámen
Up the chimney between the E and W towers to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Rudolfův kámen
From the start of the "Old Route", left along the edge through an open corner to a shelf… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rudolfův kámen
From the ring, diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rudolfův kámen
Start as "Southern Route", up the wall to the right into a corner and through it to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Rudolfův kámen
In the middle of the upper (S) face of the W tower, up the cracks to a ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing
5+
Rudolfův kámen
To the left of the "Southern Route", up the wall and through a crack (K) to a ledge. Up… Rock Climbing
6
Rudolfův kámen
To the left in the S face of the W tower, straight up the wall to K, then left up the… Rock Climbing

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