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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Panděro
From the fore-rock up the wall over 6 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Panděro
As per the route "Advertisement for Misery" but directly between 2nd and 3rd K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Panděro
Up the center of the wall over 3 K to the sub-summit balcony and by corner to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Panděro
From a prominent deep corner traverse the wall right to the W edge. Along it over 2 K via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Panděro
To the left of "Reduction Diet" up the wall to the 1st K and 2nd K. From the left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Panděro
In a deep corner, in the center of the right wall, up an overhanging crack to its end.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Panděro
To the right of the "Under the Sign of Cancer" route up an overhanging small wall over BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Panděro
To the right of Mezihra up the wall over 2 BH and further right via a crack in the Hop… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Panděro
To the right of the "Hop ten drek" route along the edge over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Panděro
In the right part of the left wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Panděro
Up the wall between the "Hop ten drek" and "Backgammon" routes over 3 BH directly to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Panděro
In the left part of the left wall via a crack to K. Up the wall along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Růžový pilíř
Via the "Roulette" route into the horizontal notch. Through the crack (K) to the end and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Růžový pilíř
To the left of "Roulette" up the wall and edge over 5 BH to the balcony. Left to K and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Růžový pilíř
In the right part of the valley wall via a crack, later a chimney and an articulated wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Růžový pilíř
About 10m to the left of the Roulette route's start, up a crack behind a large block to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Růžový pilíř
To the left of the "Squirrel Promenade" route up a corner for several meters and right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Růžový pilíř
To the right of "Ghost Town" up the wall, rib, overhang, and wall over the pulpit (11 BH)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Růžový pilíř
Like "Roulette Variant" to the terrace (belaying). About 3m back and traverse briefly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Růžový pilíř
From the 7th K of "Westend" left up the wall, through a short crack and over the roofs (4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Růžový pilíř
Approx. 5m to the left of "Ghost Town" up the wall, first straight, then slightly right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Růžový pilíř
To the left of the "Westend" route via a crack, wall, and edge over 9 BH to K of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Růžový pilíř
To the left of the pillar via a chimney for about 20m to the terrace. To the right around… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Růžový pilíř
Ascent same as "Julie's Will-o'-the-Wisp" via the chimney to the terrace and the right… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Růžový pilíř
To the left of the chimney of the "Julie's Will-o'-the-Wisp" route up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Růžový pilíř
Like "Julie's Will-o'-the-Wisp" to the terrace, left and up the wall to K. Above it,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Růžový pilíř
Like the "Cassis" route to the terrace and further to the small balcony to the right of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Růžový pilíř
From K directly to the large platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Růžový pilíř
Up the center of the left pillar's face via 2 K and hourglass to the ledge and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Růžový pilíř
To the right of "Small Problem" via a crack to the balcony. Via a crack to the left of… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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