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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Kalhotkový pilíř
In the left part of the wall over 2 K under the overhang, traverse 3m right (3rd K) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Kalhotkový pilíř
Right of the 'Playful Panties' route diagonally right 3 BH to the 1st K of the 'Immoral… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Rodná hrouda
Right of the route "Scarlet Bath" up the wall over 12 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Rodná hrouda
All the way to the right in the SW face via a wide crack over overhangs to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Rodná hrouda
In the right part of the wall from a large balcony. Left along the edge up the wall over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Rodná hrouda
In the right part of the wall from a large balcony. Through the middle of the small wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Rodná hrouda
Left of the route "Scent of Home" via a corner/dihedral, higher up a crack and right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Rodná hrouda
Through the corner/dihedral, or left along the edge, 5m up and right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Rodná hrouda
Through the middle of the wall over 2 K under a roof-like overhang to the 3rd K. Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Rodná hrouda
Right of the route "Song of the Breeze" via an overhanging wall over 3 BH to the roof.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Rodná hrouda
From the fore-rock to the left up the wall slightly left over 7 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Rodná hrouda
Left of the 'Song of the Breeze' route, up the wall and edge over 8 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Stěna rogalistů
All the way to the right in the wall via a slanting corner/dihedral (2 BH) left to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Stěna rogalistů
In the right part of the wall, 5 meters left of the Propellerheads route, through the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Stěna rogalistů
Via the corner crack to the platform (belay station). Through the enclosed corner under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Stěna rogalistů
From the stand (belay station) like "City Lights" to the 2nd K and left along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Stěna rogalistů
Left of “Kout” (Corner/Dihedral) via the wall, edge and rib over 8 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Stěna rogalistů
As a route: Classic tour to the small balcony below the edge (BH - belay station). Left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Stěna rogalistů
To the left of the "April Route", via a corner and along the edge past 4 BH to a small… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Stěna rogalistů
Left up the wall along the western corner and along the W edge to a ledge (1st K). Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Korzár
Like Calypso to 1st BH. Then up the wall slightly to the right and via a corner, later an… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Korzár
In the S wall, up the wall to 1st BH. Left along the edge and up the wall (4 BH) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
10-/10
Korzár
Like the Sea Foam route, past 2 BH and 2 K to the 3rd K and right up the wall past 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Korzár
To the right of the Sea Foam route, through cracks along the edge, higher up to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Korzár
Via the Sea Foam route to the start of the crack at the 2nd K of the Cadets' Dance route.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Korzár
In the valley wall, via a corner to K. Left along the edge under the overhang, here right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Korzár
From the 1st K of the Cadets' Dance route, left up the wall and fine ribs (K) to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Korzár
To the left of "Cadets' Dance", along the edge past 6 BH to the balcony to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Korzár
To the right of the Cadets' Dance route, up the wall past 3 K and 4 BH to the 2nd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Korzár
In the NW wall, via a corner and up the wall to K. Up the wall to the left over ledges… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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