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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Slunečný roh
Start like Copacabana to the ledge and right up the wall and rib 2 K and BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Slunečný roh
Right wall of the massif (on the floor). Up the middle of the wall via the 1st BH to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Slunečný roh
From the 2nd BH in the overhang of the route “Cirque du Soleil”, traverse the overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Slunečný roh
In the left part of the wall to the right of the route “State of the Art” up the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Slunečný roh
In the right part of the wall (upper section) left up the wall and through cracks over 2… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Slunečný roh
From the 5th BH of the route “Sitting in the Morning Sun” left up the wall over 2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Slunečný roh
Directly from below over the overhang along the edge over the 1st BH to the 2nd BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Slunečný roh
In the left part of the wall to the right of the route “Rufi the House Cat” along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Slunečný roh
In the left part of the wall, up the wall over steps and through the overhang over 7 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Slunečný roh
From the terrace (belay - BH) in the left part of the massif through the chimney over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Simulant
Up the wall to the left of the right edge to a crack, through it and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Simulant
To the left of the route “Some Like It Hot” further up the wall along the edge over 7 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Simulant
To the right of the route “Some Like It Hot” directly up the wall over 4 BH and the 5th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Simulant
From the right, lightly through the gully to the terrace for the start. Approximately 4m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Simulant
Start at an indistinct edge and up the slabby wall over the hourglasses to a ledge. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Simulant
From the 2nd K of the route “Cycle of Time” diagonally left up the wall over K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Simulant
Up the wall under the overhang (K), left via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Simulant
Up the middle of the wall over 2 K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Simulant
Approximately 10 m to the right of the route “Sacre du Printemps” up the wall over 9 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Simulant
Through the chimney to the balcony under the roof (K). Along the left edge of the roof… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Simulant
Up the wall (K) under the overhang, right behind the edge to the 2nd K and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Simulant
4m to the right of the route “No panic on the Titanic” up the wall over 9 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Kalhotkový pilíř
To the left of the route “Sleeping Bat's Edge” via the left part of the pillar, later… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Kalhotkový pilíř
In the right part of the massif from the balcony, a large chimney, via the left wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Kalhotkový pilíř
From the terrace up the wall and right to a small crack, via it into the corner/dihedral… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Kalhotkový pilíř
Along the right J-edge into the chimney (BH belay). By stemming and the right wall of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7-/7
Kalhotkový pilíř
From the terrace through the middle of the wall to the 1st K and 2nd K. Up the wall left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Kalhotkový pilíř
From the corner/dihedral 'Back to Trunks' right up the wall (BH) to the 2nd K of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Kalhotkový pilíř
Via the route 'Back to Trunks' approx. 15m to the balcony in the corner. Then its right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Kalhotkový pilíř
In the left part of the wall over 2 K under the overhang, traverse 3m right (3rd K) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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