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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Rabín
To the right of the "Kosher Crack" with a small sparrow through 3 BH. Wall 4. BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Golem
From the right edge of the massif, traverse into the plateau wall, via a small crack to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Golem
Via a double crack through the center of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Golem
Left in the plateau wall via a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Golem
From the plateau side left to the East edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Golem
Far right on the South face up to the ledge. Via a narrow crack to the cornice and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2+
Golem
From the plateau side traverse left into the South face and along the ledge left to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Golem
Far right on the South face to the ledge. Left to the stance and about 3m right of the … Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Golem
From the South via the opposition chimney between the tower and the massif into the gorge… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Golem
From the ledge directly via the wall over K to the cornice. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Golem
Through the center of the South face to a ledge and via a crack with an overhanging start… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Golem
3m right of "Jižní komín" (South Chimney) via the wall along small cracks and through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Golem
Via the wall left of "Jižní komín" (South Chimney) over BH and K to the 2nd BH. Up and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Golem
From the 2nd K right along the edge, then via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Golem
On the valley side along the left edge (2 BH), right via cracks (3rd BH) and onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Golem
About 2m right of the SW edge via a wall to the 1st K. Along the edge to a large balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Golem
Through the center of the valley wall to K, via the wall into the hole and straight,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Golem
Via the chimney in the left part of the South face to its end, traverse through the rock… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Golem
Between "Severní komín" (North Chimney) and "Severní spára" (North Crack) via a winding… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Golem
Via "Severní komín" (North Chimney) about 6m up to the balcony, then right via a corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Golem
In the right part of the wall via a chimney to a large balcony and then like "Jižní komín… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Golem
Left of the NW edge (or hand-over-hand along the ledge from the left) to the 1st K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Golem
Through the center of the North face via a crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Golem
Left of "Katochvíle" by the edge to the balcony, then a wall (2 K), further by the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Golem
At the NE edge to the 1st K, via a fine double crack to the 2nd K and along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Golem
Left of "Severní spára" (North Crack) via small cracks to the ledge, then via a crack and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Fregata
To the right of the Felix route, along the edge of the small pillar to a ledge (1st BH).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Fregata
To the right in the South wall via a wide crack, higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Fregata
In the center of the South wall via a falcon's crack, higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5+
Fregata
To the left of the route "Crack in the Port Side", diagonally left along a receding crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1

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