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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Trubka
Right of the route "Pink Happiness" via the wall over 2BH to the fore-summit. Then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Trubka
In the left part of the S wall, via the wall (BH) from the left to the fore-summit, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Trubka
To the right on the S side via the sloping wall over 2 BH to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Trubka
In the right part of the valley wall, by stemming to the 1st ring. Then directly through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Trubka
In the north wall, via a blunt edge over Bh to the fore-summit. Through the middle of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Perníkářka
Through the corner over the ring to the top. (Pillar to the left of Rampelník) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Perníkářka
Via a crack and wall over the 1st BH to the lower edge, along the edge over the 2nd BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Horní věž
Right of the 'Růžový panter znovu zasahuje' (Pink Panther Strikes Again) route, via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Horní věž
Via the 'Růžový panter znovu zasahuje' (Pink Panther Strikes Again) route, several meters… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Horní věž
Right of the Objevitelská (Discoverer's) route to Růžová vyhlídka (Rose Viewpoint), via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Růžová vyhlídka
Together with the Adventní čas (Advent Time) route, via a narrow crack (slings) to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Růžová vyhlídka
Along the right edge of the left part of the lower tier of the massif over 5BH (loop) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Růžová vyhlídka
Through the center of the wall of the left part of the lower tier of the massif over 5BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Růžová vyhlídka
Left of the "Explorer's" route, up the wall and later along a blunt edge over 3BH to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Růžová vyhlídka
Along the left edge of the left part of the lower tier of the massif over 5BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5
Růžová vyhlídka
In the north face, up the crack over 2 bh to the edge and diagonally right over 3 bh to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Školník
Through the SW wall over 2BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Školník
To the left of the Ridge Cone, from the corner of the Fir Wall. South wall and partly the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Školník
Briefly through the chimney between the Ridge Cone and the Schoolmaster. Step over into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hadí hlava
Together with the route "Shedding Skin" a few meters through notches (slings) and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Bronx (Křikloun)
In the upper SE wall on a ledge (belay) and in the left part of the wall by a short crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Bronx (Křikloun)
In the SE wall to the left of the Randolph and Mortimer route from the ledge through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Broadway
From the small platform in the corner between Broadway and Bronx, along the inner edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger +1
6+/7-
Broadway
On the NW side, left in the main wall. To the right of the route 'Ill Bill', via slabs … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Broadway
Left on the NW side, to the left of the route 'Sunny Afternoon', up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8-/8
Broadway
Left on the NW side, to the left of the route 'Defecation Reflex', up the pillar via the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Brooklyn
Right on the S side, to the right of the route 'War is My Destiny', up the gently sloping… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
6+/7-
Brooklyn
In the SE corner, about 3m like the Black Corner to a ledge and left to the 1st bolt. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Brooklyn
Up the corner between the central wall and the right pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Mařenka
From the massif, descend to the tower, traverse right along the ledge to the valley edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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