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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Jižní stěna
Up the "Black Hole" corner for 6 meters and left up the wall, crack, and wall (5 BH) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Jižní stěna
Like "Above the Model Railway" to the ledge and right up the wall (4 BH) to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Jižní stěna
Up the wall via BH directly into the 'Last Station, named Pink Ridge South' route and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Jižní stěna
3m to the left of the "Black Hole" route, over the added pillar and up the wall (7 BH) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Jižní stěna
To the left of the 'Last Station' route's pillar… from the boulder up the wall via 2 BH,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Jižní stěna
In the left part of the upper terrace (belay station with BH), to the left of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Jižní stěna
From the upper terrace along the rounded edge via BH to K. Up the wall (hour-glass) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Jižní stěna
About 4 m to the left of the 'Above the Model Railway' route's belay station, up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +4
6
Jižní stěna
To the left of the "Greenhouse" route, up the wall via K to the balcony (station). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní stěna
In the left part of the upper tier, to the right of the 'Edge' route, ascend the wall (4… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5
Jižní stěna
In the west wall, along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Jižní stěna
To the left on the upper tier at the West Edge, via 5 BH to the abseil point. Belay (2 BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Jižní stěna
From the ledge in the left part of the wall, up via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní stěna
To the right of the 'Chrptová doska' route, up the west edge via K to the upper terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Jižní stěna
To the left of the "Old Dog" route, up the slab via 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Jižní stěna
In the right part of the lower wall, to the left of the corner, up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní stěna
To the right of the crack, up the wall via K to the pillar for abseiling. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní stěna
Up the wall between two corners via 2 BH to the hour-glass below the first overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní stěna
Briefly through the corner and left into the wall. Up it via 2 K into the chimney and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní stěna
To the right of the 'Bokovka' route, ascend the wall (2 K) to the terrace. To the right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Jižní stěna
In the lowest part of the massif, right up the crack, higher up the crack in the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Jižní stěna
In the left part of the South wall, to the left of the crack, up the wall over K to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Jižní stěna
To the left of the route 'Křížovkářka' along the crack, higher up the wall over 3 BH to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Jižní stěna
In the valley wall to the right of the crack up the gently sloping wall over 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Jižní stěna
To the left of the blunt edge in the middle of the lower wall, traverse 2 K to the first… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Jižní stěna
In the left part of the wall over a BH and ledge to the 2nd BH, then up the slabby wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Jižní stěna
Completely to the left in the W wall up the pillar over 2 BH to the rappel point. The… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Dolní věž
From the plateau side to the left onto the balcony. From there, along the right edge up a… Rock Climbing
3
Verunka
In the right part of the South wall through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Četař
Through the middle of the SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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