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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Mařenka
From the massif, descend to the tower, traverse right along the ledge to the valley edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Mařenka
To the left of Technical Ecstasy, from the beech tree along the right edge of the narrow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Mařenka
Up the center of the SE face via 2 rings to a ledge. Up the narrow wall to another ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mařenka
In the valley face, to the right of the crack, up the gently sloping wall via 4 bolts to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Mařenka
In the right part of the wall, to the left of the corner, up the wall along the blunt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Mařenka
Along the ledge, traverse left into the SE face. Up the corner and cracks in the center… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mařenka
Via the "Stairs" route to the ring. Below it traverse left, up the wall, dihedral and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Mařenka
From the left edge of the valley wall to the right to the 1st BH and directly over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mařenka
From the left up the NW wall to the edge and along it to the ring. Diagonally right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Mařenka
From the left up the NW wall to the dihedral and along it to the ledge. Up the crack in… Rock Climbing
2+
Jeníček
From the massif, descend to the tower and up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jeníček
From the SW side through the crack to the end. Up the wall along the edge via 2 rings to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Jeníček
On the valley (W) side between the routes Mezulátko and Férový hráč via the 1st BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Jeníček
To the right on the valley side, through the crack and chimney up the corner to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Hvězda
To the right of the valley edge, slightly right upwards to the 1st ring below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Jeníček
Through the corner, higher up via hand crack (slings) to the end and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Hvězda
Along the blunt valley edge to the 1st BH, up past the 2nd BH and along the right edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
7-/7
Jeníček
Right of the NE crack from the rock, up the wall into the dihedral and along it to the BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mys neklidných vod
Up the middle of the SE wall via grooves, corner crack and wall past the 1st BH to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Mys neklidných vod
Up the middle of the overhanging light-colored pillar via 'hodiny' (hourglasses) and 3 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sfinga
Wall along the right valley edge over 4 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sfinga
Via the route Eternal Silence to 2 BH on the left over 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Kotelna
In the left part of the valley wall, to the left of the Early Rising route, along a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Náfuka
Approach about 3 m to the left of "Coniferous" via a gentle indentation to a boulder on a… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2
Rabín
In the S wall to the right of the Kabbalah route (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Rabín
In the left part of the S wall over ledges, higher up the wall (K) to the ledge and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Rabín
Center of the S wall via K and BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Rabín
SW edge via 2 BH, K and BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Rabín
In the West face from the fore-rock left into the chimney, higher up via a double crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Rabín
To the right of the "Kosher Crack" with a small sparrow through 3 BH. Wall 4. BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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