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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Leopoldův kámen
To the right in the valley wall, through a break into the chimney and up it to the saddle… Rock Climbing
4-
Kolbiště
To the left of the Góóóól route (south face) start from the highest point of the pillar,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
5+
Nosatec
Via the route 'Coleoptera' to the 2nd BH. From there, right into the crack and up it to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Masiv nepodaných rukou
Up the North face into the corner (belay station) and along the crack higher up the edge… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
8+/9-
Nosatec
Up the wall directly to BH and diagonally left over the ring of the route 'Vyřazovák' to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Nosatec
Up the prominent W edge directly over 2 BH to the 3rd BH of the 'Coleoptera' route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Nosatec
Left of the route 'Čínská čtvrt' (Chinatown) directly up the wall over 3 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Nosatec
Through the middle of the narrow SW face over the 1st BH to the ledge, then up the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Nosatec
From the ledge in the left part of the NW face over 2 rings and hourglasses to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Nosatec
Left of the route 'Pozdrav ze Skaláku' from the pulpit up the wall over 3 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Nosatec
From the ledge in the middle of the north face through the corner and higher up the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Nosatec
In the left part of the wall directly over 2 BH to the rappelling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Dubínek
From the start of the "Old Route", diagonally right up the receding crack to the pulpit… Rock Climbing
4-
Dubínek
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dubínek
Up the center of the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Dubínek
From S, up the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dubínek
To the left of the base, up the wall and traverse right along the crustation to the end.… Rock Climbing
5
Dubínek
To the left in the valley wall, up the smooth wall and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Dubínek
Up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Dubínek
Up the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Dubínek
About 3 m to the left of the South edge, up the wall, higher up slightly to the right via… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Jižní stěna
About 18m to the right of the prominent corner (Black Hole route) onto the fore-rock.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7/7+
Jižní stěna
To the right of “Capuccino” up the wall to the ledge (left, clock) and further over 3 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Jižní stěna
To the right of the Black Hole, up the blunt edge to the ledge and left to a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Jižní stěna
About 12m to the right of the prominent corner up the wall over 3 K to the rappel. BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Jižní stěna
About 8m to the right of the prominent corner along the crack to K. Up the wall slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Jižní stěna
To the right of the prominent corner along the blunt edge onto the ledge (K). Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Jižní stěna
Up the "Black Hole" corner for 6 meters and left up the wall, crack, and wall (5 BH) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Jižní stěna
From the 2nd BH of 'Modern Classic', slightly right over BH to the balcony at the edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Jižní stěna
Like "Black Hole" several meters up and left, first via a small crack, then the corner… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3

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