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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Trojmezí
Start in the left part of the NW wall along the crack, see text. Rock Climbing
3
Falterovka
Along the SE edge directly upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Tři bratři
In the middle of the S massif, start from a stone, up the wall past 2 bolts to the rappel… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Havraní jehla
Through the middle of the NE wall via a hand crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Havraní cimbuří
From the NE via a hollow into the corner and to BH. To the left via the corner to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Havraní cimbuří
Along the W edge over roof-like layered rocks to a shelf. Via a crack near the edge to a… Rock Climbing
3
Havraní cimbuří
Over the initial overhang to the fore-summit via the face and diagonally left through the… Rock Climbing
6-
Posed
Up the wall over K into the crack and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Posed
Directly up the overhanging wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Posed
Along the short NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Posed
From the corner through the left recess to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Posed
Through the right recess to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Posed
Through the left recess about 2 m above the ledge, left to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Posed
Along the overhanging edge over 2 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Posed
In the NW corner diagonally to the right (BH). Up the wall (2nd BH) via the small pillar… Rock Climbing
6
Posed
Up the wall about 3 m from the path. Climb over the overhang to the 1st K. Slightly left,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Posed
By the SW wall below the overhang to K, to the left by a small rock pinnacle to a step… Rock Climbing
4+
Posed
Through a crack in the center of the wall upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Posed
From the corner by Ohniště (Fireplace) by a crack to a balcony (sling, spitz/point), to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Posed
By an indistinct edge over a step to a balcony and through a chimney upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Posed
To the left of the corner by an overhanging wall to K. By the overhang and the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Posed
To the right in the SW wall through a crack upwards and to the right to K. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Posed
From the gorge by the overhanging wall to a small balcony and to the right by a crack… Rock Climbing
5
Posed
From the corner between Travertina and Posed, by the overhanging wall to a ledge (BH). By… Rock Climbing
3
Posed
In the right part of the upper E wall through a corner and by the wall to a small balcony… Rock Climbing
6
Bentová tvrz
Left of the route "Below the abseil point" up the wall directly over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bentová tvrz
Up the wall below the abseil point over 2 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bentová tvrz
Via an indistinct crack to half the height of the wall (K), here diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Letohrádek
Left part of the wall over BH to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Letohrádek
Through the corner over the platform straight to the top. Rock Climbing

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