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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Orel
Through the corner in the W face to the pre-summit and along the SW ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Orel
Along the NE ridge over a large balcony to the pre-summit and by the "Old Route" to the… Rock Climbing
3
Orel
Left in the North face via a chimney to the fore-rock and then "St. c." to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Orel
4 m to the left of "St. c." via a crack into a notch, up the face to the fore-rock and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Orel
From the upper (N) side, through the corner via steps below the summit block and up the N… Rock Climbing
3
Orel
2 m to the left of "St. c." via a crack to the fore-rock and then "St. c." to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Zarostlá věž
Along the right lower edge over the hours into the middle of the face to the balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zarostlá věž
In the East face, via a crack, higher up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zarostlá věž
In the upper face, left to the NE edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zarostlá věž
Up the upper face below the overhang and right via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zarostlá věž
Directly to the summit via the NW edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Zarostlá věž
Up the upper face below the overhang and left over the overhang to the summit. (below the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zarostlá věž
From the Z face, traverse right to an overgrown balcony on the valley (S) face. Up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Vyhlídka
Via a crack in the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Vyhlídka
Along the edge to the right of "Spring Crack" to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Vyhlídka
To the right of the start of the "Spring Corner" route via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Vyhlídka
Through the center of the pillar to the top, see photo. Rock Climbing
6-
Vyhlídka
From the left upper edge diagonally right over 3 BH via the face to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Vyhlídka
To the right of the route "Every moment pulls a saw" via a crack into a hole, further… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Vyhlídka
Along the right lower edge to the clock of the "Stupid Rainbows" route, further via a… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
5
Vyhlídka
Through the center of the east face via BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Vyhlídka
Left in the valley wall by the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vyhlídka
Like "Blbý duhy" (Stupid Rainbows), but from the hourglass from the left around the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Vyhlídka
In the right part of the valley wall by a chimney in the edge to the hole under the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Vyhlídka
Indentation in the middle of the valley wall to the hole (hourglass), left by the wall… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
3
Vyhlídka
Completely left in the valley wall (under a large beech tree) shallow crack to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Modrý masiv
In the right part of the NW wall over steps, then through the break at the edge (loop) to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Modrý masiv
In the left part of the NW wall from the break to the BH, then by the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Modrý masiv
Start in the middle of the west wall, which is located furthest north of the entire… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7
Faraón
To the left in the S wall through a crack to the balcony to K. Up the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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