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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Lokomotiva
To the left in the E wall, up the crack to the balcony. Then up another crack, and… Rock Climbing
7
Májka
To the right in the W wall, through cracks under the overhang, then via the notch in the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Májka
Through the crack in the center of the W wall over 2 dBHs to the top (rappel). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Májka
Along the valley edge over 4 BHs, higher up to the right towards the rappel point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Májka
Up the South chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Permoník
Via a crack in the N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Permoník
In the middle of the E wall directly via the wall over an overhang (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zarostlý kámen
Via the overhanging wall to the left of "Cloud Atlas" over a bolt, hourglass, and the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Permoník
Through the center of the upper (W) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Permoník
Via the left upper (NW) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Permoník
Via the right upper (SW) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Obětní kámen
SE via a thin crack into the chimney to the ledge, over BH and via a recess n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Obětní kámen
Middle of the valley (E) wall via the wall and a crack to the pillar and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Obětní kámen
Right of "Sacrifice" via the wall and crack between the tower and pillar, to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Obětní kámen
Left of the "Chimney Route" through the middle of the wall to the pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Obětní kámen
NE edge to the circle on the balcony of the route "Crack to the Window" and via it n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Obětní kámen
Middle of the S wall via a crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Obětní kámen
Left of the "Northern Chimney" via the edge and stepped wall to the "Senior Walks"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Obětní kámen
Right in the S wall via a chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Obětní kámen
Left in the S wall via a chimney under a large block, left up the stepped wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Obětní kámen
From the gorge in the W wall via a crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Obětní kámen
Left of "Moon Eclipse" left along the ramp and up the stepped wall to the balcony and via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Obětní kámen
Left of the "Western Crack" via the wall and a shallow gully to the ledge and then by a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Obětní kámen
Wall to the right of the "Western Crack" n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Obětní kámen
SW edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Obětní kámen
From the massif, traverse to the edge. Rock Climbing
2
Obětní kámen
Left in the J wall via a short crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Obětní kámen
Right of the "Southern Crack" via a short wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mařenka
Middle of the S wall via a crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Obětní kámen
Right in the J wall up steps n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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