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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Sluneční věž
Via the corner in the valley face below the overhang, directly over it (or from the left)… Rock Climbing
5
Sluneční věž
Right in the N face to the balcony and via the corner of the "Southwest Route" to the… Rock Climbing
6
Sluneční věž
Up the center of the S face to the ledge and up the face, first left, then center to the… Rock Climbing
6
Sluneční věž
Briefly like "Edge of Fear", then left up the face to a small crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sluneční věž
2m right of the SW edge via a diagonal crack to a small platform and another small crack… Rock Climbing
3
Sluneční věž
Via the corner at the SE edge to the ledge in the S face and along it left into the… Rock Climbing
3
Sluneční věž
Up the plateau (E) face left or right to the balcony and via the NE ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sluneční věž
Along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Sluneční věž
From the plateau side right behind the NE ridge and via a small crack slightly left to… Rock Climbing
7
Mamut
In the right part via a crack, higher up right over an overhang, left to the pulpit and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Budulínek
Up the center of the valley face to the 1st BH (also possible slightly right). Then left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Budulínek
Up the valley face along the left edge via 3 BH to the summit. (abseil) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mamut
In the right part of the S face along the crack to the right, then slightly left and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Mamut
Left of "Valley Crack" by overhanging wall (BH) to a hole and from there over a hourglass… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Mamut
Up the center of the massif via the face over 2 BH directly to the summit. (abseil) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Mamut
Left via a crack, higher up the face along the edge to the summit. (n.t. - na vrchol / to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bandaska
Along the right valley edge (hodiny - hourglass/bollard) to the summit. (n.t. - na vrchol… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mamut
Along the left valley edge (BH) and higher to a ledge, then right along it and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bandaska
Via the corner in the S face and left to a step. Via the route "Right Edge" to the summit… Rock Climbing
4
Bandaska
Along the left valley edge to the balcony, then along the edge to the summit. (n.t. - na… Rock Climbing
6
Saturnin
From the 1st BH of "The Postman", along the right valley edge via 3 BHs to the summit. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bandaska
Up the center of the valley face via K to the summit. (n.t. - na vrchol / to the top) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Saturnin
Up the valley wall over 4 BH (bolts/pitons) to the top. (rappel) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Sestry
In the right part of the valley (W) wall, up the overhanging crack into a small corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Medvídek
Through the middle of the plateau wall. Rock Climbing
3
Medvídek
From the plateau, up the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6
Medvídek
From the N base, up the crack to the fore-summit and along the "Northeastern Edge" to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Spare Route
7-/7
Medvídek
Along the left valley edge over 3 BH (bolts/pitons) to the pillar (rappel) and freely to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Medvídek
Through the middle of the valley wall over the break-out upwards and left to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
6
Medvídek
To the left in the valley wall, up the chimney into the crack, then along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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