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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Žlutý pilíř
Up the wall over BH directly into the upper crack of the "North Crack" route and along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Žlutý pilíř
In the north face, up the crack to the end, traverse left into another crack, up that and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Žlutý pilíř
Farthest left on the S wall, up the crack and wall to the balcony and along the edge (2 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Žlutý pilíř
Up the lower crack of the "North Crack" route to the balcony, up the wall and mantle over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Žlutý pilíř
Like the Valley of Solitude route to 1st K, from there right onto the ledge and through a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
4+
Žlutý pilíř
Up the wall directly into the chimney of the "Right Chimney" route, then higher right up… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
3
Žlutý pilíř
In the middle of the massif, up the crack, rib and difficult traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Žlutý pilíř
To the right of the Left Chimney, up the crack to the K and slightly right, then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6+/7-
Žlutý pilíř
Start like the Right Chimney route and straight to K, over an overhang and left to 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
3
Žlutý pilíř
In the left part of the massif, up the chimney to the top. (abseil to the right) Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7/7+
Bělská stěna
In the right part of the SE wall via a crack and overhang (K). Over the overhang to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Bělská stěna
In the left part of the South wall via a crack, corner, and chimney over a wedged boulder… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
?
Bělská stěna
In the middle of the South wall over several upswings to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Overhang
5
Starosta
In the plateau wall to the right of the "Old route" via a shallow crack to a ledge (hours… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Starosta
Along the plateau edge (hours) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Starosta
Via the "Status Quo" route to K. Then directly up the wall over 3 BH to the summit. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Starosta
In the valley wall, along the left edge to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Starosta
South wall to K, right through the dihedral to the balcony and via the "Valley route" to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Starosta
To the right of the status quo edge, over the circle directly into the dihedral and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Starosta
From the left wall to the NW edge and along it (K) below the summit head. Via the "Valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Starosta
Up the center of the valley wall directly into the chimney and over the fixed ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Starosta
About 2m to the right of the S edge, up the wall into a hole. Left onto the edge and… Rock Climbing
7
Starosta
To the right in the valley wall, then diagonally left up the wall (fixed ring) below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Starosta
In the middle of the upper wall to a small balcony and up a crack to a large balcony. To… Rock Climbing
?
Starosta
From the small balcony on the block on the upper side, jump to the small balcony of the … Rock Climbing
6
Chameleon
Up the conspicuous (SW) edge over 2 rings, higher up to the right via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Chameleon
From the 2nd ring of "Forgotten Edge" to the left through a fault to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Chameleon
From the 1st ring of "Forgotten Edge" to the left up the wall and an widening crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Ledová korunka
Right up the uphill wall to the ledge and then the NW edge n. t. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Podzimní stěna
Right of the route „Poslední prázdniny“ (Last Holidays), from the grassy balcony up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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