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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Zobák
Left in the N wall by cracks to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zobák
Narrow plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Odsouzencova hlava
In the right part of the valley wall over 2 pitons to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Opuštěná věž
From the gorge or from the NW edge of the N summit. Along the edge, then an overhanging… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Opuštěná věž
To the left of the "Valley Route" by wall and crack over a bolt to a ledge, by wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Opuštěná věž
From the start of the "Northwest Route" to the right through an overhanging corner to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Opuštěná věž
Through the corner from the NW into the saddle between the summits and by the "Old Route"… Rock Climbing
7
Opuštěná věž
Through the corner from the NW about 7m up and diagonally right to the bolt. By chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Opuštěná věž
To the right of the "Valley Route" by wall over a bolt, at the top left or right of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Opuštěná věž
Completely on the left in the S face to a large platform, through a corner to the balcony… Rock Climbing
6
Opuštěná věž
Start with the "Southwest Route" and continue straight up to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Opuštěná věž
Completely on the left in the W face to a ledge, along it to the right into the middle of… Rock Climbing
5
Opuštěná věž
Between the "South Route" and the "South Corner" along the edge to the balcony and by the… Rock Climbing
3
Opuštěná věž
To the left of the "July Route" through an open corner over steps and a chimney to a… Rock Climbing
4
Opuštěná věž
Through the large corner in the S face to a large balcony and by the "South Route" to the… Rock Climbing
4
Opuštěná věž
By crack from the E into the saddle between the summits. Left to the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing
6
Opuštěná věž
From the start of the "East Crack" about 3m left into a crack and along it to the bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Opuštěná věž
To the right of the route "Income Tax" along the edge (bolt) to the fore-summit and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Opuštěná věž
To the right of the "East Crack" through the corner into a niche. Over the overhang and… Rock Climbing
?
Opuštěná věž
From the fore-summit to the N summit and by a jump to the main summit. Rock Climbing
3
Opuštěná věž
From the fore-summit diagonally left to the balcony and further left into the saddle… Rock Climbing
3
Opuštěná věž
From the plateau side to the large fore-summit, then either by crack over the N summit,… Rock Climbing
7
Konírna
To the right of the "Voltigeurs" route, up the wall along the edge over the overhang (BH)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Konírna
Right part of the SE wall up the wall via BH under the overhang, over it from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Konírna
Up the center of the wall over the overhang (clock) and the wall (BH) directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Konírna
In the left part of the valley wall, up the wall and corner to the summit. (slings) Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bělský kámen (Kordóba)
As the route "El Hombre Dorado" to the clock, from there right along a subtle rib and up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6
Masiv KPH
Through the chimney in the valley wall about 8m up to a shelf (SM), traverse left into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Brána
Up the center of the NE wall via a crack and left along a crack to the balcony. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7
Brána
To the left of the route "Bird's Astonishment", via cracks to the ledge (BH) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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