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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Opomenutá věž
In the right part of the valley SW face, via a crack into a niche. Over the overhang into… Rock Climbing
5
Opomenutá věž
To the right in the valley wall, via the S edge over K n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Opomenutá věž
Start to the left of the Youth Crack route. Up the wall through two holes to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Opomenutá věž
Through the crack to the right of the Old Route n.v. Rock Climbing
5+
Opomenutá věž
To the left of the start of the Old Route via the edge n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
2+
Opomenutá věž
Through the chimney in the upper E face n.v. Rock Climbing
6-
Ostravská stěna
To the right of the Northwest Edge route into the hole and to K and n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kačer
Start via the crack of the West Bivouac route, higher up through the left crack and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Kačer
SW pillar and small wall around the K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Kačer
Through the crack to the ledge and over the belly to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Kačer
Middle of the valley face to the ledge to the K, up the face and over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Kačer
Right of the Valley Route, jump onto the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Páže
1.5m to the right of the plateau edge via the crack to the balcony of the "Old Route". By… Rock Climbing
4
Páže
From the start of the "Endiaron" route traverse right and directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Bratranec
In the middle of the valley wall, plumb line with 2 BH (bolts) directly to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Páže
Left from the valley side via the chimney over the overhang to the balcony of the "Old… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Páže
From the boulder to the right of the "Positive - negative" route, over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Páže
Left of the valley edge along the wall (watches) under the overhang to the K (ring). Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Páže
Along the valley edge to the balcony, then to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Páže
Like "Valley Edge" to the balcony, diagonally left along the wall to the K (ring).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Páže
Right in the S wall into the corner and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Páže
Left of "St. c." (Old route) up the wall over the K (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Páže
Via the crack in the center of the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Páže
From the beginning of the crack diagonally left along the wall and via the crack to the… Rock Climbing
1
Páže
Along the plateau edge to the balcony and further to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Páže
In the center of the E wall via the chimney and crack to the balcony of the "Old Route",… Rock Climbing
6-
Hubený strážce
Up the S face to the left towards the SW ridge and along it to the summit. (unsecured,… Rock Climbing
2
Kvádr
Up the center of the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kvádr
Through the middle of the NE wall (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kvádr
Up the center of the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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