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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Terasa
In the North wall via iron-stained holds continuously to the right, over holes into a… Rock Climbing
4+
Terasa
Up the middle of the NW face via a rib, over the terraces into a crack and upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Terasa
From the South via an indentation and a notch upwards. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Neuberova stěna
From the right to the center of the wall and via a small crack to the ring. Directly to… Rock Climbing
6-
Kýsova stěna
Up the valley S wall to the 1st K. Up the wall and crack to the 2nd K. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Hadí pilíř
Up the left valley edge through holes to K, onto the ledge and over the 2nd K directly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Srnčí bivak
Up the wall via an arête and higher around the nose n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Srnčí bivak
In the right part of the wall, along the bivouac edge to the 1st K, from there right to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Srnčí bivak
Up the wall over several holes to an arête, up it and the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Srnčí bivak
Up the wall to two holes (K). Via the arête and the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Srnčí bivak
In the middle of the wall via a crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Srnčí bivak
From the left into the hole, to K and then slightly to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Srnčí bivak
In the right part of the massif, via a chimney over the overhang to the edge to K. Along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Srnčí bivak
In the right part of the massif via 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
3
Západní věž
Up the middle of the N. wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Západní věž
In the left part of the plateau's N wall upwards and left along the edge upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Západní věž
Up the NW edge over the balcony and cornice upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Západní věž
Up the W. edge before the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Západní věž
Start via the 'West Route' 4 m, then right up the wall to the ring. Directly up the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Západní věž
In the right part of the west wall over an overhang to the 1st bolt. Further directly to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Západní věž
To the left in the valley wall to the bolt. Up the wall to a ledge. Via the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Západní věž
To the right of the 'Northwest Ridge' route over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Západní věž
The W wall is traversed by a chimney, up which you go. Rock Climbing
3
Západní věž
Up the E corner, then via the crack or the wall to the right upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Západní věž
From the niche to the right and directly up the wall. Rock Climbing
4+
Západní věž
Through the corner into an indentation. Traverse left, upwards over the edge into the… Rock Climbing
4+
Západní věž
Left of the corner via a prominent crack over the overhang into a niche. To the right,… Rock Climbing
4-
Západní věž
To the left of the E edge up the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Západní věž
Via the crack in the middle of the E wall upwards. Rock Climbing
2+
Západní věž
In the right part of the E wall via the crack upwards. Rock Climbing

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