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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Zeď
Entry in the center of the pillar, which is formed by 2 cracks, up the wall into a subtle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zeď
Via a prominent crack to the right of the Škalda route over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Zeď
Above the 2nd K of the Eveline route, up the wall left to the 1st K of the Škalda route… Rock Climbing
6
Zeď
Entry as for the Prodavač losů route into the rib, via it up to the crack and through it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Zeď
Entry same as for the Prudký nápad route via the corner up to below the overhang, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Zeď
Via a crack about 6m right of the corner into a hole, via a fissure and the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Zeď
Right of the Škalda route up the wall via 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Zeď
Right of the corner of the Prudký nástup route directly up the wall via K to the 1st K of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Zeď
In the left part of the wall via the corner under the overhang and left to K, then via an… Rock Climbing
4+
Zeď
Right of the route "Do naha" via a depression to a ledge, via a crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Zeď
Left of the corner, up the wall over the ring directly to the ring of the Prudký nápad… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Zeď
Entry behind Popelka. Up the wall along the edge via the 2nd K to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
10-/10
Popelka
In the SE wall via 2 bolts and 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Náprstek
Left of the massive overhang via small ledges and further up the wall to K. Up the broken… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Náprstek
In the right part of the massif via the rib and higher up the crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Náprstek
To the right of the Singer route, via a small ledge on the edge of the massif into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Náprstek
Up the stepped edge of the massif at the level of the East edge of Tisá Needle via K. Rock Climbing
4+
Tiská jehla
From the gully traverse right into the corner on the SW edge. Through the corner right… Rock Climbing
5+
Tiská jehla
Up the wall, left around the edge to the center of the South wall to the crack (K). Up… Rock Climbing
4+
Tiská jehla
From the highest block in the plateau North wall, briefly up and traverse left to the SE… Rock Climbing
5
Kostelní stěna
Along the right edge to the crack to the 1st K and further up the crack around the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Kostelní stěna
Up the crack in the center of the wall to K, then right along the wall to the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Kostelní stěna
Up the wall to the right of the crack directly into the summit crack. Rock Climbing
5
Kostelní stěna
In the left part of the wall, up the corner to the ledge to K, then further up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Kostelní stěna
Up the wall along the left edge and traverse right into the hole to K. Diagonally up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Schovanka
From the 1st K of the Half and Half route, follow the rib running diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Schovanka
Up the center of the right part of the wall to K, then slightly left and back right, and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Schovanka
To the right of the Jankovo vidění route, directly over 2 K and higher up through the… Rock Climbing
5+
Schovanka
Right of the Middle Crack, up the wall to a crack (K). Then further up the gradually… Rock Climbing
5+
Schovanka
In the left part of the massif, up the wall and via a dihedral over K n. v. Rock Climbing

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