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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Stříbrňák
Left on the valley side, via a crack/dihedral to the overgrown plateau. Via the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Stříbrňák
Right in the valley wall, via a crack to the ledge, traverse 4m left and via the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Citadela
In the center of the N wall, via a small dihedral/crack to the ring. Traverse left, via a… Rock Climbing
4+
Citadela
From the uphill side, traverse right behind the E edge, via a gully to the balcony and to… Rock Climbing
4+
Stříbrňák
From the uphill side, descend left to the overgrown ledge. Via a crack, higher up left to… Rock Climbing
3
Stříbrňák
From the highest point of the uphill side, via the wall to the plateau and via the S wall… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Citadela
From the massif, jump to the pre-summit and then via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Citadela
From the massif, descend 4m, step over and straddle to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Citadela
Through the chimney in the N wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Citadela
Right of the Old Path, briefly via an overhanging crack to the ledge, traverse briefly… Rock Climbing
3
Citadela
From the uphill side, through a wide chimney to a slanting balcony and a crack to the… Rock Climbing
3
Citadela
Via the crack and chimney from the SE side to the fore-summit and then up the gully to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Stříbrná stěna
In the left, upper part of the S wall, between the Dessert and Appetizer routes, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8-/8
Stříbrná stěna
Between the Invitation and Main Course routes, directly up the wall over 4 bolts (BH -… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2+
Stříbrná stěna
From the plateau side, to the left between the summit and the fore-rock, descend and then… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Stříbrný masiv
From the Guard of the Silver Wall, about 80m to the left along the massif to a prominent… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Stříbrný roh
From SW or N to the terrace in the W wall, through the corner to another terrace,… Rock Climbing
4-
Kostelíček
From right to left into the E wall and up the wall to the platform (standard route). Rock Climbing
3
Kostelíček
From the valley side via the wall and crack to the platform. Rock Climbing
3
Kostelíček
On the W side over the overhang into a crack and via it to the platform in the S wall. Up… Rock Climbing
4+
Sportovní věž
Via a narrow crack in the right part of the N wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Sportovní věž
In the left part of the valley wall via a notch, later via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Sportovní věž
Via the V-edge to K under the overhang. Left behind the edge into a small crack and up it… Rock Climbing
3
Sportovní věž
From the small platform via a crack to the right. Rock Climbing
3
Sportovní věž
From the left edge of the plateau wall via a narrow crack to the right onto a platform,… Rock Climbing
5
Olymp
Left in the N wall via a hand crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Olymp
Start with the NE edge and along it to K. Traverse left to the pinnacle and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Olymp
Start with the E edge, crack and pinnacle to K. Up the wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Olymp
Left of the Zeus route via the notch to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Olymp
Through the middle of the left wall along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing

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