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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Olymp
Start with the E edge, crack and pinnacle to K. Up the wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Olymp
Right in the valley wall via a crack over K to the top.
4-
Olymp
On the massif, completely to the left via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Olymp
From the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Překrásné Březno
Through the center of the wall directly over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Srpnový masiv
In the valley wall from the left to the fore-rock and by crack in the middle of the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5
Členitá stěna
Via a hollow in the wall into a hole, left to a bolt, via a narrow ledge and a crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Bouřlivá stěna
Start left of Útěk z New Yorku (Escape from New York) and directly past 2 holes to a bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5+
Bouřlivá stěna
Left of the cave, via a stepped wall to a bolt, directly onto the fore-rock and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Bouřlivá stěna
From the 2nd bolt of the Formani táhnou (Wagoners Pull) route to the right and then… Rock Climbing
5
Varhany
In the right part of the wall by a narrow ledge and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Varhany
In the middle of the wall, through the crack into the hole and then further right via a… Rock Climbing
6-
Varhany
In the left part of the wall over the broken overhang to the right to the crack, up it to… Rock Climbing
5
Varhany
Start the same as the Valley Route up to the hole and from there left via a system of… Rock Climbing
6
Varhany
Over the overhang directly to the K and left into the small crack and to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Hřebenový kámen
Up the edge to the right of the corner of the Northern Route over 2 Ks to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Valcha
In the right part of the wall from the cave over the salty belly into the crack. Up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Valcha
Up the left wall of the large chimney over 3 Ks to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Valcha
To the right of the Rosemary route through cracks and later the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Valcha
To the right of the Clean Laundry route, through the crack into the hole and then further… Rock Climbing
6-
Valcha
Near the left edge of the massif, via a crack into a hole and over a small overhang to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Valcha
To the right of the Left crack from the large hole to the K, further up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Valcha
To the right of the Beginner's Route, up the small wall into the crack, through it over… Rock Climbing
5+
Žluté převisy - pravá část
On the E side, from the chimney to the edge and left into the E wall to K. Via a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Žluté převisy - pravá část
In the right part of the overhang into a small rock cave, over a small overhang and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žluté převisy - pravá část
Access along sloping ledges to the right to the crack, up it to K and further up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Zeď
Center of the right part of the wall into a small corner, via it to the end and left to 1… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Žluté převisy - levá část
In the left part of the wall near the corner, a crack to its end, left to K and further… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Zeď
Access about 6 m to the right of the access to routes Liftboy and Hotel Savoy, up the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Zeď
Entry via the Liftboy route into a small corner and from its end slightly right over a… Rock Climbing

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