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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Schovanka
Right of the Middle Crack, up the wall to a crack (K). Then further up the gradually… Rock Climbing
5+
Schovanka
Right of the Jupí path, up the wall through a hole to K and then directly up the wall n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Cvičná stěna
Up a wide chimney to the ceiling, traverse out within it and via a crack to K. Further up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Cvičná stěna
On the right side of the large chimney in the middle of the valley wall under an overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Cvičná stěna
In the corner in the middle part of the wall under an overhang (K). Over the overhang… Rock Climbing
6-
Cvičná stěna
Up the wall over 1 K n. v. Rock Climbing Danger
6
Cvičná stěna
In the right part of the massif, up a small wall into a corner and through it over 1. K… Rock Climbing
6-
Cvičná stěna
From the SW via a crack to the fore-summit of the Training Wall. From there along the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Cvičná stěna
Right behind the edge from the path "Sadness and Longing", up a small wall along the edge… Rock Climbing
6
Cvičná stěna
Ascent via the Sugar Refinery path to the fore-summit and then directly along the edge… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Cvičná stěna
Ascent in the middle of the left block of the Training Wall, up a small wall into a crack… Rock Climbing
5
Cvičná stěna
Up the right chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Cvičná stěna
Up a prominent crack in the middle of the left part of the Training Wall to K and further… Rock Climbing
5
Cvičná stěna
In the corner to the right of the Razor path, up the left chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Cvičná stěna
In the corner between the Golden and Training Wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Zlatá stěna
Up the crack in the middle of the S wall to the niche, then further up the crack and… Rock Climbing
6-
Zlatá stěna
Right of the Friends' Path via fine cracks to 1. K. Up the wall through a double hole… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Zlatá stěna
From the left side of the S wall, diagonally right via cracks to a ledge in the middle of… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Zlatá stěna
From the center of the upper N wall through a hole to K. Slightly upwards, traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
3
Lavice
Up the left valley crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Studentík
To the right of the Old Route along the edge past K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Lavice
Along the short summit edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Studentík
In the summit wall via a narrow crack. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Lavice
From the massif, a jump to the ledge in the center of the tower to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Studentík
Between Studentská věž (Student Tower) and Studentík (Little Student) by straddling to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Studentík
Along the SW edge. Rock Climbing
5
Studentík
Up the NE wall past K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Studentská věž
Via the chimney from the W to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Studentská věž
Up the wall of the adjacent pillar into the window, then via the broken crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Studentská věž
Via a crack up the middle of the South wall. Rock Climbing

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