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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Západní věž
Up the E edge left of the corner to a ledge and up the edge. Rock Climbing
5
Věž Bürschlických stěn
In the left part of the wall over the overhang into the hole. Right into the middle of… Rock Climbing
3
Věž Bürschlických stěn
Up the overhanging wall, then right to the crack and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Stěna PK
In the left part of the valley wall by overhang over 2 K n.t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Špion
In the right part of the upper N wall, overhang into the chimney, through it into holes,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Špion
In the left part of the upper N wall, by crack and higher by fissure (K) and wall n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Špion
Slightly from the left into the center of the upper N wall directly over the holes (K) n… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Špion
Left S crack into the hole and wide crack n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Špion
In the left part of the SW wall, overhang to K. Wall into the hole and right to 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Špion
In the W wall to the left of "Štěnice" (bed bug) into the hole and over the overhang (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Špion
Right overhanging edge in the N wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Danger +1
5+
Špion
S wall into the hole and left to K. Left into cracks and diagonally right n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2
Špion
Via the chimney in the left part of the North face to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Špion
Overhang to 1st K and wall directly over 2nd K n.v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Špion
Via the chimney between Špion and Větrná to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Špion
Up the wall along the indistinct West edge via the Piton to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Sfinga
Through the middle of the South face (Piton) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4+
Jubilejní skála
Completely left in the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Opomenutá věž
To the right in the N face into a large hole and right to K. To the left via a gully to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Opomenutá věž
From the grassy sloping ledge in the middle of the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8-/8
Opomenutá věž
Right part of the overhanging NW face overhanging into the hole and up the wall via K to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8/8+
Opomenutá věž
In the left part of the overhanging NW face over K into the hole and to the right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Opomenutá věž
To the right of the route "Hedgehog Stings" via an overhanging crack, higher up the rib… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Opomenutá věž
Crack in the NW face to the left to its end (K). Smooth wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Opomenutá věž
Directly between 1st and 2nd K. Rock Climbing
5+
Opomenutá věž
Up the overhanging edge of the prominent pillar to the 1st K. Further to the balcony. Up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Opomenutá věž
Up the wall with delicate holds to the right of the pillar to a crack and up it onto a… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Opomenutá věž
From the 1st K of the Shadow of Time route, slightly right up the wall directly into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Opomenutá věž
From the upper side to the left over dK to the edge and up it n.v. Rock Climbing
4+
Opomenutá věž
In the right part of the valley SW face, via a crack into a niche. Over the overhang into… Rock Climbing

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