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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Kvádr
Left of the E edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kvádr
Left of the N edge by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kvádr
Through the middle of the NE wall (BH) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bukvice
In the left part of the NW wall by rib and wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Bukvice
Right of the "Old Route" by narrow wall to the ledge and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kvádr
By gully/notch in the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kvádr
Right of the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Bukvice
In the right part of the NW wall by overhanging wall into a hole. Along the crack to the… Rock Climbing
2
Bukvice
Up the East wall diagonally left and by slab climbing along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Bukvice
Start as "Winter Route" and left to the ring. Over the ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Bukvice
By the rib in the upper (E) wall to the balcony, diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Bukvice
Up the valley wall through the hole to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Havraní stěna - jižní
Up the pillar in the corner over 2 bolts (BH) to the abseil bolt (BH). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Havraní stěna - prostřední
Through the defect to the right of "West Wall" (BH) and up the wall over the overhang via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Houba
Between "Valley crack" and orig. "Valley route" via an overhanging wall to the ring of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Houba
Left of the start via an overhanging wall (hourglass) to the balcony. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Houba
In the right part of the valley (SW) wall via an overhanging indistinct crack into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Houba
In the left part of the SW wall via a crack to the balcony and via an overhanging crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Houba
E wall under the overhang (K). From left over the overhang and right into a ledge (large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Houba
From K "Muchomůrky červené" directly by crack and further to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Houba
SE edge to the balcony and traverse left to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Houba
SE edge to the balcony. Wall left of the edge to the ledge, along it right into the E… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Houba
From the large balcony in the left part of the S wall into a hole and further left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Houba
Through the crack in the E wall or the NE edge to a large balcony. Center of the S wall,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zobák
Left on the NW side along the rib diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Houba
Right in the N wall into a crack and through it to a large balcony. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Zobák
Near the right valley edge into a crack, through it under the overhang (K). Right and up… Rock Climbing
4
Zobák
In the S wall left into a crack and through it (sling) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zobák
Left in the N wall by cracks to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Zobák
On the SE side diagonally left to the rib and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing

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