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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7
Brána
To the left of the route "Bird's Astonishment", via cracks to the ledge (BH) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Brána
In the right part of the wall, along the edge to the balcony at the ring. Along the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Brána
Left of the route "Feeling of Uncertainty", via a notch over an overhang (BH) to its end … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Brána
In the left part of the wall, via a crack to the end (ring). Up the wall and right, via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Brána
Left of the route "Bitter End" via a crack and an overhang (K) to the summit plateau. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
7
Brána
Left of the SE edge, up the wall into a corner and through it to a hole (sling). Left up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Branka
Up the wall over the steep section to the summit plateau. Rock Climbing
8
Malá věž
Through the middle of the SW face directly up the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malá věž
Right of the S edge up the wall (K) to the twin crack. Follow it to the ledge and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malá věž
From the ledge, diagonally left up a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Malá věž
From the left onto the S edge, straight up, then at the top left of it to the summit. … Rock Climbing Danger
6
Malá věž
Along the S edge to the ledge in the valley wall. Follow it right to the twin crack, then… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Malá věž
From the start of the "Direct Valley Route" diagonally right up the wall over the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7
Malá věž
Up the chimney in the middle of the valley (E) wall below the overhang (hourglass) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Malá věž
Right of "Gaia Mesiah" via a crack to its end and diagonally left up the wall to a… Rock Climbing
4
Malá věž
From NW along the ledge to the left to the NE edge. Along the edge, at the top right of… Rock Climbing
7
Malá věž
4m left of the "Northwest Crack" wall. First slightly left, then right into holes (dBH),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Malá věž
To the right of the "Lower var. Mossy Path" up the overhanging wall through a double hole… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Malá věž
Up the "Northwest Crack" for about 3m and traverse left along the ledge to K. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Malá věž
From NW, directly up the crack to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing
?
Pachole
see photo Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Malá věž
From the saddle (bouldering start) to the W edge and along it to the balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing
5
Malá věž
From the saddle, traverse about 3m left along the ledge, up the wall and rib to a ledge… Rock Climbing
6
Děčínská stěna
In the right part of the SE wall, about 3m left of the NE edge, up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Děčínská stěna
Right on the SE wall, about 3m left of the "Blackberry Crack" route, up the crack to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8
Děčínská stěna
Start from the ledge in the middle of the SE wall up the slightly overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
?
Jílovská stěna
Up the crack to the right of the Jack Russel band route to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Jílovská stěna
Up the middle of the NE wall directly over 3 rings to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Jílovská stěna
Like the Tramp route to the ring, from there left up the overhanging corner to the top. … Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Jílovská stěna
In the left part of the massif, up the wall and crack over the overhang (K). Higher over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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