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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Podzimní stěna
Right of the route „Poslední prázdniny“ (Last Holidays), from the grassy balcony up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Podzimní stěna
From the start of the „Komínová soustava" (Chimney System), diagonally right up the SE… Rock Climbing
5
Podzimní stěna
Left of "Poslední prázdniny" (Last Holidays), via the crack to the balcony and then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Podzimní stěna
Left of the "var. Komínová soustava" (Chimney System variation), up the wall through a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Podzimní stěna
On the far left in the W wall, via the narrowing chimney to its end (left of „Sametová c.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Podzimní stěna
Up the wall along the NW edge to a ledge to the 1st bolt, up the wall to the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Podzimní stěna
From the gorge, via the right chimney to the balcony, then through another chimney into a… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Podzimní stěna
From the gorge between the routes „Podzimní sosnění" (Autumn Whispering) and „Komínová… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Podzimní věž
Like the „Údolní stěnka" (Valley Wall) to the balcony. Up the wall to the left into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Podzimní věž
From the upper side, traverse right to a large balcony in the valley wall and then up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Podzimní věž
Via the left crack in the S wall to the terrace and then along the „Údolní stěnka" … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Podzimní věž
Via the SE (left upper) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Podzimní věž
Via the right crack in the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Podzimní věž
In the upper wall between „Rychlovka" (The Quick One) and „Májová cesta“ (May Route),… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Podzimní věž
Via the crack below the SW edge and then along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Podzimní věž
In the upper wall, right into a short crack and further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Podzimní věž
Via the upper crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Želva
Completely left on the valley side from the boulder via an overhanging edge, higher up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Želva
From the North wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
10
Želva
Left on the valley wall directly via bolt and by a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Želva
Right on the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Želva
Start via the overhanging SW edge, higher up diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Želva
Through the middle of the overhanging valley wall via chopped holds to the bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Želva
Right of the "Valley Route" via the wall and a small corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Overhang
1
Želva
Left on the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sluneční věž
Up the overhanging N face to the hourglass/bollards of the route "For a Bottle of Rum"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Sluneční věž
From the East from the block, jump to the balcony of the "Old Route". Follow it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Sluneční věž
Left on the North face through the corner to the Hourglass, over the overhang into a wide… Rock Climbing
7
Sluneční věž
From the balcony, along the left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sluneční věž
Right in the N face to the balcony and via the corner of the "Southwest Route" to the… Rock Climbing

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