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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8
Medvídek
To the right in the valley wall over 2 BH (bolts/pitons), higher up along the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Medvídek
From the 2nd BH from the left, up the wall over the 3rd BH directly to the ring of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Medvídek
(By setting up) onto the S edge and along it to the balcony in the valley wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Medvídek
From the NE edge along the ledge left to the S edge and up that one. Rock Climbing
8
Bělský masív
Right up the wall over the overhang (K) to the 3rd BH of the "Cross Route" and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Bělský masív
Up the hand crack through the pillar in the middle of the wall to the top to the rappel… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Bělský masív
In the left part of the massif via the ceiling overhang (BH), up the wall into a corner … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bělský masív
Left of the "Children's Dream" route over BH into the falcon's nest (K), up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bělský masív
Far left via crack (BH from "Diamond Wall") or easier left via chimney to the belay… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Gorila
Left in the S wall to BH, via crack and edge to the balcony. Left via the falcon's nest… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Gorila
Via the "Gorillas in the Mist" route to the balcony, right over the 2nd BH above the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Gorila
Up the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Dědova hlava
Via the S wall left to the SW edge and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Pilíř
Via the chimney between the pillar and the marginal rock upwards. Rock Climbing
4
Pilíř
In the valley wall via a crack upwards. Rock Climbing
7
Pilíř
Via the narrow SE wall (initially overhanging), along the edge over a ring upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pilíř
Through the middle of the N wall over a ring upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Masivy za Lokomotivou
To the S pillar, left in the W wall via the small chimney/corner to the BH, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Masivy za Lokomotivou
To the N pillar, in the N wall through the crack under the overhang to the BH. Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Lokomotiva
To the right of the start, up the edge to the sloping platform. Rock Climbing
6
Lokomotiva
From the N, up the overhanging corner, then higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6-
Lokomotiva
Via the 'Valley Route' to the K (ring), traverse left and near the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Lokomotiva
Up the center of the valley wall to the balcony to the K (ring) and up the center of the… Rock Climbing
6
Lokomotiva
Up the N wall over the K (ring) and BH, higher up the edge to the balcony. Any way to the… Rock Climbing
7
Lokomotiva
From the boulder below the SE edge, up the wall diagonally left and along the curving SW… Rock Climbing
5
Lokomotiva
Via the 'East Route' to the balcony, traverse left to the S edge and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Lokomotiva
In the valley wall from the right to the balcony. Up the corner, then higher up the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Lokomotiva
4m left of the start of the 'Old Route' up an overhanging wall, then right into a crack… Rock Climbing
4
Lokomotiva
To the right in the plateau wall, over a slight overhang onto a sloping platform and via… Rock Climbing
7
Lokomotiva
To the left of the 'Plateau Route', up the wall over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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