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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Hlavička
From the highest point in the massif, descend via a hawk-like gully, first S, then W for… Rock Climbing
2+
Hlavička
From the massif in the direction of Falcon Castle, descend to a ledge, right and briefly… Rock Climbing
?
Matzseidelova stěna
Descend a few meters down the overgrown face from the "Old Route" chimney, traverse to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Matzseidelova věž
Along the SW edge over 3 rings, higher traverse to the 4th ring. Via crack and chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Želva
Up the corner to half height, then through an internal narrow chimney to the saddle. Rock Climbing
3
Matzseidelova věž
In the valley wall, through the chimney over the balcony to the pillar and as the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Želva
Through the middle of the NW face along fine pinnacles (ring), higher up along the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Želva
From the NW via the chimney that divides the tower, higher up via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Želva
Through the chimney to the start of the crack, then traverse right and via the chimney to… Rock Climbing
4-
Želva
Through the corner between the tower and the massif to the saddle and via the Old Route… Rock Climbing
4+
Želva
From the balcony below the SE face, diagonally right up a corner crack and later a crack,… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Želva
Into the SE face from the right, traverse at half height from the valley side. In the… Rock Climbing
3
Želva
From the balcony below the SE face, far right through a narrow chimney and gully to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Želva
From the block below the NW face, go right, up a small wall and a chimney to K. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Želva
From the SE via a chimney directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Želva
From the massif, descend via a chimney to the plateau, traverse left and along the ridge… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Malý tetřev
From the ledge on the N side of the pine tree (loop) diagonally right to the NW edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
7-/7
Tetřeví výspa
To the right of the Escape route, across the terraces directly up the wall past 2 K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Tetřeví výspa
Follow the Pabrek route to the 2nd K. Left to the balcony and along the S edge past 6 K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8/8+
Tetřeví výspa
Left in the N wall, left of the route Coke for the Preacher, from the fore-rock up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Tetřeví výspa
In the center of the wall, initially up an overhanging crack over 2 rings to the rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Tetřeví výspa
From the overgrown terrace on the left side of the N face. To the right of the Rum Crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8-/8
Věž Stříbrné stěny
From the terrace on the SE side, right of the route 'Short Shine', up the wall over 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Věž Stříbrné stěny
Between the routes "Direct variant of Silver Arrow" and "Long Way" up the wall and ramp… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stříbrňák
Like the Vienna Waltz to the overgrown plateau. Right of the Dancing Lessons route, from… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Stříbrňák
Like the Vienna Waltz to the overgrown plateau. In the left part of the wall, diagonally… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Stříbrňák
Like the Vienna Waltz to the overgrown plateau. In the center of the W wall over 3 rings… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stříbrňák
Like the Vienna Waltz to the overgrown plateau. Left of the Dancing Lessons route, via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stříbrňák
Left on the valley side, via a crack/dihedral to the overgrown plateau. Via the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Stříbrňák
Like "Valley Route" up to the 2nd ledge (above it the 2nd ring) and via the stepped edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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