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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Čínská zeď
Start approx. 25m left of the bivouac, up the face and Falcon's Crack to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Čínská zeď
Start 3.5m left of the right edge of the overhang, climb 30m up the face to a ledge and… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Čínská zeď
Approximately in the middle of the central face at the right edge of the small overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
?
Čínská zeď
Together with the 'Tůdden of increased work initiative' route, about 12m to the first… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Čínská zeď
To the right of the 'Tůdden of increased work initiative' route, climb the face over bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Čínská zeď
From the left edge of the large overhang, initially ascend a steep, overhanging gully to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
?
Železné věže
All the way to the right from the massif, leap across to the N summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Železné věže
Right in the plateau wall, up the chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Malý Pravčický kužel
From the foot of the N corner of the tower, crack to the shelf and edge to the ring. Wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malý Pravčický kužel
Middle of the W wall over 2 rings to the ring of "Old Path" and that way to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Stará Václavská stěna
To the left in the NW face via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Stará Václavská stěna
From the wall diagonally right to the balcony at the S edge. Up the wall diagonally left … Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
7-/7
Stará Václavská stěna
All the way to the left in the SE face to the ring under the overhang. Traverse left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Stará Václavská stěna
To the left on the SE side, up the face over a ring, higher up left to the overhang. Like… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Stará Václavská stěna
To the left of the start of the Old Way, up the face over 2 rings (crossing the Southeast… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
2+
Stará Václavská stěna
Through the center of the SE face via a crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pravčická stěna
Up the right corner over the 1st ring (construction/aid) and 2nd ring into the chimney -… Rock Climbing
6
Pravčická stěna
On the NW wall by corner crack over 3 rings into the chimney, then up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Věž Dlouhého dolu
From the block in the south corner, to the right of the Koutová Spára route, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Smrkový kámen
Approach left of the "Valley Chimney" route via the SE face over 2 rings, higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Smrkový kámen
Approach right of the "Valley Chimney" route via the SE edge and rib to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Smrkový kámen
In the center of the South Face via a crack and a fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Paroháč
Left on the plateau side via the wall, higher up by excavating to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Hlavička
From the massif, descend to a sloping plateau. Jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hlavička
From the path left initially by an inclined corner between the tower and the massif … Rock Climbing
5+
Hlavička
Right in the valley wall by a crack over overhangs, a chimney, higher up by the Old Way… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Hlavička
In the middle of the valley wall by a crack to a ring. By an overhanging crack (sokolík)… Rock Climbing
3
Hlavička
From the highest point in the massif, descend via a hawk-like gully, first S, then W for… Rock Climbing
3
Hlavička
Like the Old Route, descend, then via the plateau chimney to the NE opening, traverse… Rock Climbing
4+
Hlavička
Like the Old Route to the chimney between the tower and the massif. Up the face to the… Rock Climbing

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