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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Pevnost
In the middle of the S wall, up the crack to the ring. Up the smooth wall to the ledge… Rock Climbing
6-
Pevnost
As the West Ridge, directly along the edge to the 1st ring. Overhanging wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Pevnost
As Eiger 78 to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the right over 4 rings, higher up left via… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Pevnost
Left of the Eiger 78 route, up the wall (1st ring) to the 2nd ring. Traverse right and up… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Pevnost
Right in the S wall to the ring. Traverse left and up the wall over 3 rings diagonally… Rock Climbing
6-
Pevnost
In the middle of the S wall over 2 rings, right to the ledge under a large overhang.… Rock Climbing
5+
Pevnost
From the edge to the ledge, traverse briefly right and over the overhang into the gully.… Rock Climbing
4+
Pevnost
From the tourist path, up the S overhanging wall to a sloping ledge leading off to the… Rock Climbing
5
Pevnost
From the start of the gorge, up the left wall diagonally left to a ledge, left up the… Rock Climbing
2+
Česneková jehla
From the massif, descend to the plateau, via the steep drop and up the wall to the left… Rock Climbing
4-
Česneková jehla
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up the wall below the rappel… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pevnost
From the massif, through the chimney and steps to the saddle. Down to the left, through… Rock Climbing
5
Homole
Left of 'Davová psychóza', via the interrupted chimney, then the first overhang to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Česneková jehla
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the plateau and along the edge … Rock Climbing
7/7+
Homole
Along the 'Davová psychóza' route via the 1st ring to the ledge. Straight up the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Homole
To the left in the NW wall, up the crack and wall to a ring. Climb the wall to a ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Homole
To the left in the SW wall, up to the crack and along it to the plateau. Right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Homole
In the center of the valley wall, slightly diagonally right to a ring. First straight,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Homole
From the start of the 'Davová psychóza' (Mass Psychosis) route, right along the wall via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Homole
Left of the SW edge, up the rib and diagonally left along the wall to a ledge (ring). Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Homole
As the Northeast crack, about 3m up, traverse right and along the N edge (hour-glass) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Homole
In the center of the NE wall, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Homole
From the E edge, along a ledge 3m to the right and up the wall to another ledge. Traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Homole
Along the E edge, higher up like Sattler's Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Homole
Through the crack in the S wall and diagonally right (crossing the Old Route) to the E… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Homole
Directly up the South edge to the plateau, up the wall to the ledge (hourglass) and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Homole
To the left of the East edge, diagonally left up the South face to the plateau at the SW… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Homole
From the right over the overhang to the SW edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Bratrská věž
Follow the old path to the fore-summit. Up the uphill wall diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bratrská věž
From the boulder at the SE edge (by aid climbing) and through the crack to the edge.… Rock Climbing

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