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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Golem
Right in the NW face, below the overhang to a ledge, diagonally left to the overhang,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Golem
In the middle of the north face to the 'K', then further up via face and crack to a ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Golem
Right of the "Dobrák se dobroty nedobere" route, right along the ledge, up the face to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Golem
From the center of the south face into the niche, traverse left to the edge and then via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Golem
Up the face in the middle of the valley (west) wall, past the hourglass feature straight… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Golem
Diagonally up the west face to a balcony, traverse left and then via crack to a ledge.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Golem
About 4 m to the right of the south edge to a crack (ring), along it past the 2nd ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Golem
From the start of the Old Route, along the ledge to the left, over a slab to a small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Golem
To the left of the Old Route, traverse leftwards to a crack and then up that to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Golem
In the SE face, to a hole and then up a crack to a balcony. Via the Evening Route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Golem
Via a corner and chimney to the left of the narrow upland wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kostelík
By the Southeast Route to the balcony and directly via the crack to the fore-summit and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kostelík
About 4 m left of the "Selfish Route" via the slab wall into a hole. From there over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kostelík
Up the crack in the center of the SE wall to the fore-summit and by the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kostelík
About 4 m left of the Southeast Crack route via the wall into the right hole and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kostelík
Up the wall below the rappel point over a ring to the ledge and by the North Route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kostelík
In the NE wall to a small balcony and over a ring upwards, higher up traverse left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kostelík
Up the gully to the right in the SE wall to the balcony and diagonally right up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kostelík
Up the SE wall to the ring, traverse left and directly to the ledge, along it right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kostelík
Start like "North Route" briefly upwards, higher up directly over a ring and hourglass to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kostelík
To the left of the "Imperial Cut" route along the edge over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kostelík
From the N corner, diagonally left up the wall and through the corner to the projection… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kostelík
To the left of the "Penance" route, directly up the wall over a ring to the fore-summit.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Kostelík
From the corner to the right up the chimney to the fore-summit. By the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kostelík
Up the crack in the NW wall over the overhang to the fore-summit. By the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kostelík
Up the pillar to the right of the route "St. c." to the fore-summit and by this route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kostelík
To the left of the "Catholic Route" (aid climbing) and up the crack to the fore-summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kostelík
About 3 m left of the "Hunger Crack" via a small pillar/flake, higher up to the right via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kostelík
From the fore-summit a long traverse left to the valley edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kostelík
Up the chimney from SW to the fore-summit. Along the edge (aid climbing) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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