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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Nová věž
To the right of the E edge, up the gully, then up the small gully over the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Nová věž
From the valley side, up the corner and chimney below the large overhangs. To the left, a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Nová věž
From the NW edge, follow the broken ledge to the right and diagonally right up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Nová věž
To the left of the W edge, traverse left to the rib, follow it to the ring, traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Nová věž
To the right of the W edge, follow the wall over the overhang (ring), then higher along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Nová věž
From the foreland on the W edge, left to the crack and then up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Nová věž
From the foreland to the W edge and then up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Nová věž
To the left of the 'Old Route', follow the wall to the ring and then right to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Nová věž
On the right side of the uphill face to the balcony and then up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Voldříšek
On the right side of the S face, diagonally left along the ribs to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Dvojitá věž
From the upper side, traverse left along the footbridge to the corner (building) into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dvojitá věž
In the right part of the South wall, through the crack and left using a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dvojitá věž
To the right of the Old Route (building) over the overhang and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dvojitá věž
On the left edge of the South wall into the recess. Traverse left behind the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Dvojitá věž
From the balcony of the Western Chimney route, traverse right to the hours, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvojitá věž
In the middle of the South wall, over the ring below the overhang to the 2nd ring. Over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Dvojitá věž
From the Western Chimney to the balcony and another chimney to the pre-summit. By the Old… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dvojitá věž
In the left part of the downhill (S) wall, up the wall to the ledge (hours) and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Dvojitá věž
Start in the right part of the downhill (S) wall to the 1st ring, then straight and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvojitá věž
Like the Western Chimney to the balcony. Up the wall to the left and along the edge over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kaplička
By the right downhill edge (hours) to the ring and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kaplička
Through the center of the downhill wall to the plateau. Through the crack to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Dvojitá věž
Through the chimney from the East to the pre-summit and up the slanting wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dvojitá věž
Up the wall to the left of the Old Route, or by building along the edge to the edge, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kaplička
Through the middle of the upper wall, using a chimney, to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kaplička
By the right upper edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kaplička
On the left in the upper wall, diagonally left and through a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Koník
On the left edge of the S wall, go past 2 rings to the 2nd ring of the Path of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Koník
In the right part of the N wall over the ring to the hourglasses c. The western edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Koník
In the right part of the N wall, higher up the center to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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