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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Koník
On the left edge of the S wall, go past 2 rings to the 2nd ring of the Path of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Koník
Via the ledge in the S wall to the right to the SE edge, (building) over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Koník
Left in the S wall diagonally left to the W edge to the hourglasses, left of the edge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Koník
Along the small corner to the ledge and right to the hourglasses. Right over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Koník
Far right in the S wall, from the left over the overhang to the SE edge (hourglass) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bludný kámen
From the edge to the ledge and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6
Bludný kámen
Right of the start of the original route, up the wall slightly left to the ledge on the… Rock Climbing
4-
Gorila
Via the 'veleopů' route to the ledge and left to the large hourglass, then higher along… Rock Climbing
5
Gorila
Up the upper wall diagonally left, via the hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Gorila
Up the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Gorila
On the right in the N wall, along the edge via the large hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Gorila
From the SW corner to the ring and right along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Gorila
In the S wall, a crack (large hourglass) and then the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Myslivecká věž
Up the diagonal crack to the left of Mechová cesta to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Myslivecká věž
From the south edge, traverse right, using a hand-crack and gullies to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Myslivecká věž
Directly up the blunt edge to the hand-crack, then up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Myslivecká věž
Up the crack in the middle of the NW face to its end, traverse right to the edge, and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Myslivecká věž
Up the right downhill edge into a niche, left to the ring, and up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Myslivecká věž
To the right of Mechová cesta, up the face via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Myslivecká věž
On the right side of the NW face, near the edge, over the overhang using a crack to its… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Myslivecká věž
Start about 2 m to the left of "Varianty houbařů" and to the right of "Cesty Miroslava… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Myslivecká věž
Directly up the south face via a ring to a hole in the overhang (2nd ring on the left).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Myslivecká věž
Up the south face below the overhang, traverse right past the edge to the hourglass… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Myslivecká věž
Up the right downhill edge, via a ring and holds shaped like clocks (4x) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Myslivecká věž
From the balcony directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Myslivecká věž
From the upland side to the balcony and up the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Golem
In the left part of the north face, up the face and crack, higher up via the "Old Route"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Golem
Up the narrow upland face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Golem
From the upland plateau, traverse right to the wide chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Golem
Right on the north face, via corner and crack over a ledge to a ring bolt, then via crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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