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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Kostelík
From the fore-summit traverse left and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Továrna
In the left part of the wall, via a crack in the corner (SM) under the overhang, over it… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Továrna
In the middle of the wall, up the wall over 2K to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Továrna
To the left of the route "Fulfilled Norm", up the wall over 2K to the ledge and right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Továrna
In the right part of the wall, up the wall to the ring, higher up the rib (SM) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7-/7
Továrna
To the right of the route "Afternoon Shift", up the wall over 2 K under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Titanic
In the middle of the massif, up the wall 2K and via a crack to the deck. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Titanic
Left in the NW wall via a corner to the deck. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Titanic
From the base in the valley wall, left to the fore-rock and up the wall to the pulpit (SM… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Trpaslík
Through the center of the Northeast small wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
3
Trpaslík
To the right of the "Small Crack" along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Trpaslík
To the right of the "Old Route" via a small crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Trpaslík
Along the valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trpaslík
Along the edge from the bivouac to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Trpaslík
Easily along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Trpaslík
In the middle of the valley wall via small holes, higher up via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mužik
South small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mužik
North small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Mužik
Upland West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Deska na Kobylce - východní vrchol
Up the V-edge directly over the plateau/platform to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Věž křídelní stěny
Right of the 'Yellow Danger' route, up the wall (2 rings) and right to the pulpit. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Věž křídelní stěny
About 7 meters left of the 'Yellow Danger' route, up the wall from the right to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4+
Posed
NE edge into the recess (hour-glass) and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Posed
From the valley side, via chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Posed
Via chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Posed
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pevnost
Left in the S wall via a corner, higher up the right edge to the pulpit and over the… Rock Climbing
3
Pevnost
Old route to the saddle, up the plateau wall and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Posed
Left of the Old Route, up the S wall to the fore-summit, step across and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
2
Posed
From the N, via chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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